Parisians Join the
South Pigalle is the capital’s secret spot for a perfect family holiday, writes Anna King Shahab
Nudging up to the city’s original red light district, the several blocks that constitute South Pigalle, which straddles the north of Paris’ 9th arrondissement and the south of its 18th, has become a favourite residence and hangout for the city’s hip, moneyed bobos (bourgeois bohemians) — so much so that the area has had bestowed on it its own nickname, Sopi. Here’s why this lesserknown quarter is my choice pick for a Paris base.
Well connected
Sopi is a handy spot for arrivals and departures, being less than 10 minutes’ walk from Gare du Nord (which is on the RER B train line to the airport, and is where the Eurostar gets in). We arrived close to 10pm and had planned to take a cab to our booked apartment as we’d been warned that the area around the train station was a bit dodgy, but coming out to the bustling main street we decided to walk it: the area west of the station is well-lit and lined with bistros and bars. Plumes of cigarette smoke were the only peril for us that night. For getting around the city by Metro, Sopi is served by the stations Anvers, Pigalle, and Saint-georges.
Close to everything
We loved that Sopi was close to most of the city’s most loved attractions, yet because it isn’t a destination in itself it retains an everyday, neighbourhood vibe — bustling with Parisians popping into the butcher’s, baker’s and greengrocer’s, or enjoying a coffee or aperitif on the pavement.
From here, the sights of the 1st to the 3rd arrondissements — the likes of Pompidou Centre and Louvre, can be reached in 30 minutes or less, while it’s a slightly longer but still manageable walk over the Seine to the Latin Quarter, Musee D’orsay and Eiffel Tower. Of course, taking the Metro cuts time but you miss out on soaking up the sights that often make the trip memorable.
The quaint winding streets of Montmartre are just a couple of minutes walk away. Simply cross Boulevard de Rochechouart and you’re suddenly in souvenir-shop territory. Derided as it may be by many Parisians, who refer to it as the “wedding cake”, the Sacre Coeur presiding over the neighbourhood was a hit with my kids who thought it — much like a wedding cake should be — very fancy indeed. They were in awe at the views over the city. If you’re in the market for cheap knick knacks as my children always are, note that the souvenir sellers here have collectively settled on a price about half that of the sellers along the Seine. Every Euro counts when you’re converting your pocket money.
The beating heart
The main artery of the area, the gently sloping
Rue des Martyrs links the churches Sacre Coeur and Notre-dame-de-lorette and is in many ways the perfect example of a Parisian street. The New York Times’ former Paris bureau chief Elaine Sciolio penned a whole book about it in 2016, dubbing it “The only street in Paris” and stating, “I can never be sad on the Rue des Martyrs”.
In what was until not long ago a firmly working-class district, shops that have existed for decades now rub shoulders with chi-chi clothing boutiques, macaron meccas, and delis proffering ready-cooked meals for time-pressed Parisians. One thing that hasn’t changed is that these are mostly small businesses, 200-plus, collectively emitting a riot of colour (the road is home to many florists) and smell (it’s very hard to walk past the rotisserie chicken shop without caving). Spending a good few hours mooching along this street is a wonderful way to fill your memory bank with Parisian charm currency.
Pop into passages
Before sprawling shopping malls came elegant arcades — 19th-century Paris sure knew how to build them, and Sopi is a good starting point for a day exploring the city’s collection of them. These shopping arcades or, as they’re known locally, passages, run from the top of 9th right down to the Louvre.
Two hundred years on from their inception they remain the bastion of small businesses, the individual quirks of which contribute to the nostalgic vibe. Think bistros and cafes with lacecurtained windows, and a plethora of shops dealing in collectables — from antique light fittings to books, stamps, records, old photographic equipment, and posters. Some arcades are a little dusty and worn, while others are resplendent in their original Belle Epoque beauty, having been gracefully restored. Meandering through these sky-lit arcades evokes a sense of history and makes for a peaceful few hours well away from the crowds, as well as a clever way to traverse the city — especially on a grey, showery day like the one that greeted us.
Bookmark guides to the arcades are online, or use the maps app on your phone and search for passages — each passage leads to another, with a street-crossing or alley-walk between them. One of our favourite finds along the way was Pain d’epices (translating as “gingerbread”) in Passage Jouffroy. It’s a toy store like no other — as well as a huge selection of general toys (leaning towards retro classics rather than cheap tat), there’s an astonishing array of dolls’ house fillers — the miniature French pastries to grace miniature boulangerie shelves look good enough to
eat.
Stay
We booked an apartment on Avenue Trudaine, just near the Anvers Metro station, and would highly recommend that block: clean, safe-feeling, dotted with cafes and bistros, and brilliantly convenient.
Eat
There’s no avoiding the queue to nab a table at Bouillon Pigalle, a classic bistro hangout close to Pigalle Metro station, but it’s so worth joining. Cheap and cheerful with a particularly lively atmosphere, it’s immensely popular with locals and seats more than 300. Go for nostalgic French classics like roasted bone marrow, terrine, steak frites, and roast chicken and potato in gravy — true comfort food, at very reasonable prices, served by genius waitstaff (you’ll be partnered with one who speaks your language).
You’ll find great coffee at KB Cafe Shop, great baking at Boulangerie Mamiche, and a great casual menu using local, organic produce, and ready-to-go meals at Rose Bakery. For a happy hour aperitif, good frites and people-watching, go to Bistro Smiley.