Taste of Esk Valley satifies palate
Recently, I was very fortunate to attend a winemaker’s dinner at the fantastic Palate restaurant in Hamilton, hosted by the charming and inimitable Gordon Russell of Esk Valley Wines.
Esk Valley is an old established Hawke’s Bay producer, and Gordon has been making their wines for over 20 years. Part of the Villa Maria Group, which has always been a firm family favourite, I was more than keen to try their wines, and they certainly didn’t disappoint.
Those who know me will know the only Rose wine to pass my lips by choice will generally have bubbles in it, however, the Esk Valley Merlot Rose 2015 is a different kettle of fish – it’s a blush wine made from red grapes, dry but sweet-fruited, with notes of strawberry, and highly enjoyable.
Show me a chardonnay and I usually get interested, show me a winemaker’s reserve and I get excited, as it often suggests a big fat tasty oaky beast of a wine – the best kind. As luck would have it, Esk Valley Winemaker’s Reserve Chardonnay 2015 is exactly that style. It was served with an entirely vegetarian course, which would normally cause a furrowed brow and a muttered curse, but the potato gnocchi was a perfect match.
Served with some beautiful Hapuka, Esk Valley 2016 Verdelho was a revelation. Originally from the Portuguese island of Madeira, Verdelho is becoming increasingly popular as consumers look for something new and different.
Esk Valley was the first to plant the variety in New Zealand, as far back as 1998. An early ripening variety with tiny grapes, this example is half stainless-steel tank fermented and half in barrel. Made with wild yeasts, it is dry, mouth filling and powerful, with some beautiful ‘old world’ savoury notes, fresh acidity and a sense of the exotic. One of my favourite wines of the evening.
Esk Valley produce one of NZ’s absolute classic wines – The Terraces. A blend of classic Bordeaux varieties, it sits at the very top of the tree and has become an iconic wine that is generally offered ‘en primeur’, a French tradition where top wines are offered for sale while still in the barrel to those lucky (or wealthy!) enough to be on the list.
Sadly, we didn’t get to try any! Instead, we were treated to Esk Valley The Hillside Cabernet/ Merlot 2010, which is sort of a baby brother to The Terraces, still using the very best fruit but slightly more approachable and slightly cheaper.
It is a big, muscular, dark fruited and complex wine that will age well but is already spectacular.
When I’m not combining grainfed sirloin steak with NZ red wines, I tend to beer and food match at home. As a go-to commercial beer that is several levels above the usual suspects, Monteith’s RIPA Red IPA is a great option.
In my previous column, I mentioned the supposed demise of the loved Mikes from Taranaki.
I amhappy to say that I was misled, and that Mikes is very much alive and kicking, and producing some very tasty beers. My apologies to Ron and all at Mikes for the error – I blame my researcher!
Waikato writer Simon Wood grew up in Hamilton and now lives in Te Aroha.
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