TOP PINOT GRIS
Opawa Pinot Gris 2023 (Wairau, Marlborough) -2 $22 ★★★★★
TRANSLATED FROM the Māori word ōpaoa meaning ‘smoky river’, the Opawa vineyard is planted on the historic riverbed of the Opawa river. The course of the river was changed so that the Wairau plains could be developed for agriculture leaving this part dry and desolate.
An old riverbed is usually barren and stony with water draining freely and thus not fit for growing – with the exception of grapevines, that is. They do say that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure and this is true in the case of old riverbeds and grapevines. The arid and stony soil means that the grapevine has to work harder and the roots must go deeper to find water and nutrients. In doing so, the vines find minerals and elements deep within the soil that help to give the grapes complexity and a unique sense of place. The stones in the soil take in and retain heat during the day and release it back to the vines at night, a protective measure in a cool-climate region such as Marlborough that can be prone to spring frosts. This wine proves the magic of the riverbed – it was an absolute standout. It is high toned and fresh yet complex and rounded on the nose with aromas of citrus pith, ripe pear, nectarines and spice. The palate is generous and moreish with fleshy pear and perfectly balanced acid and residual sugar. It’s fresh and bright with a creamy texture that adds weight and length.
2 / Awatere River Pinot Gris 2023 (Marlborough) ★★★★★ -2 $20
An attractive and expressive gris with citrus rind, white florals and baking spices on the nose in medium intensity. The palate is fresh, vibrant and direct, nicely weighted with sweetness balanced by the juicy driving acid present. Lengthy and delicious.
3 / Mud House Single Vineyard Home Block Pinot Gris 2023 (Waipara) ★★★★★ -3 $25
Pale in the glass with florals layered against pears and ginger spice on the bright, fresh nose. The palate is nicely concentrated with a good fleshy, rich concentration with crunchy salivating acid, great weight and texture which leads to a refreshing finish.
4 / Tupari Pinot Gris 2023 (Marlborough) ★★★★★ -2 $22
Bright and pale with aromas of pears, jasmine, lime citrus and green apples on the nose which segue through to the palate. The palate is delicate and lean with lovely purity of fruit, wonderful acid tension and linear focus.