BRUSH HOUR
Bad hair? Not today. Lush locks start with the right brush, so Tamsin Marshall shares what to look for
Decoding the humblest of hair tools
Round brushes are the go-to for creating volume and curls. Katie Hook, creative director at Auckland salon Loxy’s, says they’re the best tool for altering the natural disposition of hair: they volumise thin hair, tame thick hair, create waves in straight hair and calm curls. The size of the barrel you choose should reflect the style you’re trying to achieve and the length of your hair: the shorter your hair, the smaller the barrel. There are two different types to choose from, depending on your hair’s needs: ceramic or wooden.
Ceramic round brushes (pictured left: Moroccanoil Ceramic Round Brush, $49.95) retain heat for a quicker result when used with your hairdryer. The ceramic component also counteracts positive ions in the hair, minimising static electricity and therefore flyaways and frizz. It also helps to seal the cuticle, locking in your hair’s natural oils for smooth, shiny, healthylooking locks. Ceramic round brushes are great for creating curls or waves as the heat is distributed evenly.
Wooden round brushes (pictured left: Via Natural Boar Rosewood brush, $28.99) are ideal for thick or naturally curly hair that you want to smooth and control. They’re often made with boar bristles to ensure they’re still gentle on the hair and retain heat.
Paddle brushes’ square shape (pictured left: Mita Ionic Grooming Paddle, $14.99) lets you dry larger sections of hair at once, so they’re faster for drying than round brushes. They’re good for creating sleek, straight tresses; use long, smooth strokes. Speed things up even more by using your hairdryer’s nozzle attachment. The classic Denman-style brush
(pictured left: Jørgen 7 Row Styling Brush, $15, from Haircare Market) is the queen of brushes for bobs and lobs, says Katie. The shape and weight of the brushes and the strong nylon or boar bristles help smooth the hair and create volume and a soft curve. Creative director of Wellington’s Willis York salon, Rebecca Brent, also likes to use Denman-style brushes on men’s hair when creating quiffs. “The Denman-style brush suits shorter styles,” she explains. “It’s great on men’s hair and awesome on bobs. The Denman blowwave is the first blow-wave you learn when training to become a hairdresser — possibly because it’s the easiest.”
Mason Pearson brushes
(pictured left: Mason Pearson Pocket Mixture Bristle Brush, $155, from Net-a-Porter) are known as some of the best in the business. The brand has been making its iconic rubber-cushioned brush since 1885. “Their signature brush cannot be beaten for simple brushing and detangling as it gently distributes the natural oils, creating soft and shiny hair. It’s a favourite in most stylists’ tool bags,” says Katie. Once you’ve heat-styled a curl or wave into your hair, brush with a Mason Pearson to loosen the waves for a vintage look.
Tangle Teezers (pictured left: Tangle Teezer The Ultimate, $29.95) are unsurpassed for brushing a toddler’s knotty mop — as any parent will attest! “They’re also awesome with extensions, but everyone can use them,” says Katie. “They don’t require tension or heat and are similar to a paddle brush, but they can be used on wet or dry hair.” For really knot-prone locks, use with conditioner or detangling spray.
Wide-tooth combs (pictured left: The Body Shop Detangling Comb, $9.95) are gentle enough to use when your hair is wet. Don’t go near wet locks with your hairbrush as the bristles will pull and stretch your strands, leading to breakage. Wide-tooth combs can also be used to gently massage your scalp.
Rattail combs (pictured left: Via Natural Boar Rosewood Teaser, $14.99) are the top choice for creating symmetrical styles or the perfect French plait as the long handle allows you to section hair; this works a treat when curling or straightening too. With its bristles so close together, this comb helps to smooth flyaways, bumps and cowlicks and can be used to finish a bun or ponytail. As if all these benefits weren’t enough, a rattail comb is also super handy for backcombing to create lift at the roots, and you can also use the handle to create a super-straight part and pull out bobby pins when the party’s over.