From a group show debut at NZFW in 2015, to a highly praised solo show in 2016, it’s been a swift ascent for breakout brand Wynn Hamlyn. Set to showcase his forthcoming spring/ summer and autumn/winter collections to 700 guests in the main tent, designer
WYNN: The collection, entitled ‘Seasons’, encompasses both spring/summer 2017/18 and autumn/winter 2018. It’s based on the dysfunction of seasons in fashion; the bizarreness of delivering winter collections in February — the peak of summer — and vice versa with summer collections in August. The moment of genesis was my frustration with that schedule, but also the realisation that with all the weather events and irregularities brought about by climate change, it’s sometimes actually necessary for coats in February and dresses in August. Could the idea of seasons soon be dead entirely? The collection looks at a dystopic future where, due to the effects of climate change, this is the case. Every season all the time, both extremes.
Each look will be comprised of quintessentially summer objects and textures, contrasted with winter ones. Australian hat label Helen Kaminski has come on board and created these amazing hats with huge wicker peaks — like, the most summery thing you could imagine — and they’ll be put with quilted puffer jacket-type accessories. The idea is to use polar opposites to convey the no seasons/every season idea. And this idea is somewhat exaggerated to an ‘end of days’ dystopia, so the aesthetic may look somewhat Matrix-esque or like something from The Handmaid’s Tale.
THE COLOUR PALETTE
Muted pastels, browns and checks, bordered with solid red, black and blue.
As always, knitwear will have a strong presence in the collection, but there will be some very summer-orientated silks and shirting, and some special materials like wicker and straw.
‘Seasons’ continues to develop the Wynn Hamlyn aesthetic, with similar silhouettes and garment compositions to past collections, as well as new innovations. This year, we’re expanding on the carpet theme of our AW17 ‘Axminster’ collection, and working with The Flooring Foundation to create a custom carpeted runway for the show.
As a major sponsor of NZFW this year, The Flooring Foundation decided they wanted to work with one of the designers showing. I had a clear vision of what I was doing this season, and that was something that could be translated into their technology, so it just worked really well. We brought Kelly Thompson on board to illustrate the botanical motifs on the carpet, which forms part of the runway but in a bigger sense part of the set, to be potentially displayed throughout the Fashion Week venue, the idea being that these vines are crazy and alive and flourishing in some areas, and dead in others. This collection is still for the same Wynn Hamlyn woman. She’s elegant and classic, but has a subtle subversion that comes out in the details and finishes. Because we’ll be presenting summer elements this year, she’ll also be feeling light and fun.
Wynn Crawshaw at work in his home slash studio.
Wynn has taken a from-the-ground-up approach this year, with a collaboration with The Flooring Foundation. Expressing the effects of climate change through his collection, he’s commissioned a carpet design that features floral prints that are half vibrantly alive, and half wilting and dying.