WYNN HAMLYNN

From a group show de­but at NZFW in 2015, to a highly praised solo show in 2016, it’s been a swift as­cent for breakout brand Wynn Ham­lyn. Set to show­case his forth­com­ing spring/ sum­mer and au­tumn/win­ter col­lec­tions to 700 guests in the main tent, de­signer

Fashion Quarterly - - Profile - Wynn Ham­lyn’s New Zealand Fash­ion Week jour­ney con­tin­ues on Wed­nes­day, Au­gust 30. To learn more about the man be­hind the brand, check out the video at FQ.co.nz/MeetWynn.

THE GE­N­E­SIS

WYNN: The col­lec­tion, en­ti­tled ‘Sea­sons’, en­com­passes both spring/sum­mer 2017/18 and au­tumn/win­ter 2018. It’s based on the dys­func­tion of sea­sons in fash­ion; the bizarreness of de­liv­er­ing win­ter col­lec­tions in Feb­ru­ary — the peak of sum­mer — and vice versa with sum­mer col­lec­tions in Au­gust. The mo­ment of ge­n­e­sis was my frus­tra­tion with that sched­ule, but also the re­al­i­sa­tion that with all the weather events and ir­reg­u­lar­i­ties brought about by cli­mate change, it’s some­times ac­tu­ally nec­es­sary for coats in Feb­ru­ary and dresses in Au­gust. Could the idea of sea­sons soon be dead en­tirely? The col­lec­tion looks at a dystopic fu­ture where, due to the ef­fects of cli­mate change, this is the case. Ev­ery sea­son all the time, both ex­tremes.

THE AES­THETIC

Each look will be com­prised of quintessen­tially sum­mer ob­jects and tex­tures, con­trasted with win­ter ones. Aus­tralian hat la­bel He­len Kamin­ski has come on board and cre­ated these amaz­ing hats with huge wicker peaks — like, the most sum­mery thing you could imag­ine — and they’ll be put with quilted puffer jacket-type ac­ces­sories. The idea is to use po­lar op­po­sites to con­vey the no sea­sons/ev­ery sea­son idea. And this idea is some­what ex­ag­ger­ated to an ‘end of days’ dystopia, so the aes­thetic may look some­what Ma­trix-es­que or like some­thing from The Hand­maid’s Tale.

THE COLOUR PAL­ETTE

Muted pas­tels, browns and checks, bor­dered with solid red, black and blue.

THE FAB­RICS

As al­ways, knitwear will have a strong pres­ence in the col­lec­tion, but there will be some very sum­mer-ori­en­tated silks and shirt­ing, and some spe­cial ma­te­ri­als like wicker and straw.

THE MUSE

THE EVO­LU­TION

‘Sea­sons’ con­tin­ues to de­velop the Wynn Ham­lyn aes­thetic, with sim­i­lar sil­hou­ettes and gar­ment com­po­si­tions to past col­lec­tions, as well as new in­no­va­tions. This year, we’re ex­pand­ing on the car­pet theme of our AW17 ‘Axmin­ster’ col­lec­tion, and work­ing with The Floor­ing Foun­da­tion to cre­ate a custom car­peted run­way for the show.

THE COL­LAB­O­RA­TION

As a ma­jor spon­sor of NZFW this year, The Floor­ing Foun­da­tion de­cided they wanted to work with one of the de­sign­ers show­ing. I had a clear vi­sion of what I was do­ing this sea­son, and that was some­thing that could be trans­lated into their tech­nol­ogy, so it just worked re­ally well. We brought Kelly Thomp­son on board to il­lus­trate the botan­i­cal mo­tifs on the car­pet, which forms part of the run­way but in a big­ger sense part of the set, to be po­ten­tially dis­played through­out the Fash­ion Week venue, the idea be­ing that these vines are crazy and alive and flour­ish­ing in some ar­eas, and dead in oth­ers. This col­lec­tion is still for the same Wynn Ham­lyn woman. She’s el­e­gant and clas­sic, but has a sub­tle sub­ver­sion that comes out in the de­tails and fin­ishes. Be­cause we’ll be pre­sent­ing sum­mer el­e­ments this year, she’ll also be feel­ing light and fun.

Wynn Craw­shaw at work in his home slash stu­dio.

Wynn has taken a from-the-ground-up ap­proach this year, with a col­lab­o­ra­tion with The Floor­ing Foun­da­tion. Ex­press­ing the ef­fects of cli­mate change through his col­lec­tion, he’s com­mis­sioned a car­pet de­sign that fea­tures flo­ral prints that are half vi­brantly alive, and half wilt­ing and dy­ing.

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