Find your fix

Been to a skin clinic re­cently? The menu might re­quire in­ter­pre­ta­tion, given the ex­ten­sive op­tions now on of­fer. The good thing is, look­ing like the best ver­sion of you with­out un­der­go­ing anything too in­va­sive is now eas­ily achiev­able — of­ten in your lu

Fashion Quarterly - - Inside -


Life­style fac­tors, hor­monal changes, con­gested pores and sur­face bac­te­ria trig­ger acne that can be dif­fi­cult to elim­i­nate. Gen­tle peels to in­crease cell turnover, blue LED light treat­ment to nix bac­te­ria, sooth­ing and deep cleans­ing fa­cials and mi­cro­der­mabra­sion to lessen scar­ring are all op­tions that skin ex­perts are now us­ing with suc­cess to treat the stub­born con­di­tion.


Long lauded for its abil­ity to im­mo­bilise fa­cial mus­cles to min­imise wrin­kles on the face, Botox is now be­ing used in in­creas­ingly var­ied ways. Lift­ing the brow line, end­ing ex­ces­sive sweat­ing, mi­graines and teeth grind­ing, slim­ming the jaw­line and re­lax­ing an overly gummy smile are all treat­ments car­ried out in NZ. Al­ler­gan, the com­pany that owns the Botox brand, re­port­edly has close to 800 patents for other uses, though they haven’t all been thor­oughly tested yet. Photo Fin­ish, a treat­ment now of­fered by Clinic 42, aims to smooth skin and di­min­ish pores by de­posit­ing a tiny amount of Botox com­bined with nat­u­ral mois­turiser hyaluronic acid just be­neath skin with a der­mal in­jec­tor gun that de­liv­ers five tiny nee­dle pricks at once. Ad­min­is­tered over a wider area and with less con­cen­tra­tion, it doesn’t af­fect the un­der­ly­ing mus­cles, only soft­ens su­per­fi­cial lines leav­ing skin deeply hydrated, taut and lu­mi­nous. It can also re­duce oil pro­duc­tion.


Orig­i­nally re­fer­ring to the tools used to freeze off mi­nor skin le­sions, full-body cryotherapy cham­bers where skin is sub­jected to ex­treme low tem­per­a­tures are be­ing lauded over­seas for their anti-age­ing benefits. Though they are yet to launch for that use here, an­other freez­ing op­tion has been in use for a cou­ple of years. Cry­olipol­y­sis is a non­in­va­sive fat re­duc­tion op­tion to tar­get stub­born ‘pouchy’ ar­eas, usu­ally around the stom­ach and hips.


Also known as der­mal rolling or col­la­gen in­duc­tion ther­apy, the treat­ment works by har­ness­ing the skin’s nat­u­ral abil­ity to re­pair it­self. A roller or small pen-like de­vice with a num­ber of tiny nee­dles in­side is used to gen­tly make a se­ries of tiny pricks (mi­cro in­juries) into the der­mis, or sec­ondary layer of skin. This causes cells to spring into ac­tion pro­duc­ing more col­la­gen and elastin, the foun­da­tion of smoother, firmer and brighter skin. It can also help min­imise acne scar­ring and is handy for fix­ing small fine lines around the lips.


It used to be that plump­ing out sig­nif­i­cant fa­cial lines around the fore­head, eyes and mouth was the only ap­proach for us­ing hyaluronic acid-based gel that dis­solves nat­u­rally over 6-12 months. These days, in­jectable der­mal fillers are equally as likely to be used to in­crease or re­store nat­u­ral vol­ume and con­tours to the face, some­thing that can lessen with age. En­hanc­ing the lips has been pop­u­larised by celebri­ties over­seas but ex­perts here pre­fer a more sub­tle ap­pli­ca­tion based on in­creas­ing sym­me­try. Caci uses the filler brand Juve­d­erm for its lip treat­ments, tout­ing its much smoother con­sis­tency than other op­tions in the mar­ket, which re­sults in a more nat­u­ral fin­ish. Filler to sculpt cheek­bones, soften hol­lows un­der the eyes, strengthen the bridge of the nose and firm the jaw­line is also pop­u­lar.


With a smor­gas­bord of ap­pear­ance op­tions avail­able it’s only fair guys get their share. In­creas­ingly open to fa­cial treat­ments, they’re want­ing to freshen skin, de­fine the jaw­line and get rid of deep fur­row lines to ap­pear healthy, well-rested and age­ing well.


The rest of you looks bright and tight but with­out care­ful care and sun pro­tec­tion, hands can be a dead give­away of age. Patchy pig­men­ta­tion, UV dam­age and brown spots can be treated with IPL (In­tense Pulsed Light), a treat­ment that can also be used for the same on the face and dé­col­letage. Treat­ments must be per­formed over au­tumn and win­ter, when it’s eas­ier to avoid sun ex­po­sure. Crinkly skin on the hands also re­acts well to PRP and fillers can re­place the nat­u­ral fat loss that leaves veins prom­i­nent.


Slack­en­ing skin around the jaw and jowls is one of the is­sues re­ceiv­ing in­creas­ing at­ten­tion as non­sur­gi­cal al­ter­na­tive reme­dies are de­vel­oped. Al­ler­gan, cre­ators of Botox, have re­cently launched Ky­bella, the first in­jectable treat­ment to per­ma­nently de­stroy fat cells us­ing an in­gre­di­ent called de­oxy­cholic acid. It’s been mar­keted as ideal for treat­ing a dou­ble chin and in­volves a num­ber of small in­jec­tions into the area. Used in the US for the past two years, it’s expected to be avail­able in NZ some­time in the near fu­ture.


The op­tion that ex­cites skin ex­perts the most be­cause of its abil­ity to achieve more youth­ful skin on the whole. That means smoother, stronger and more evenly coloured skin, with a re­duc­tion of the lines you already have. The key to good re­sults is a qual­ity laser op­er­ated by an ex­pert with knowl­edge of the depths the laser needs to work at. Like der­mal needling, the re­sults hap­pen be­neath the sur­face as the skin is stim­u­lated to re­pair the mi­cro­scopic treat­ment zones cre­ated by the laser. Skin looks bet­ter in the short and long term as more col­la­gen is pro­duced. Tra­di­tional lasers di­rectly tar­get the up­per layer of the skin while more ad­vanced frac­tional lasers, con­sid­ered ‘the gold stan­dard’ in the in­dus­try, dif­fuse the burst of en­ergy into a grid of much smaller ‘pin pricks’ that work on a far deeper level for more ef­fec­tive re­sults.


Fast and ef­fec­tive, mi­cro­der­mabra­sion is one of the eas­i­est ways to achieve a brighter, clearer com­plex­ion. It in­volves re­mov­ing the gunked up top-layer of dead skin with a vac­uum hand piece that uses small crys­tals to ex­fo­li­ate, re­veal­ing newer, fresher look­ing skin be­neath. It’s es­pe­cially good for thick, oily, black­head­prone skin but isn’t ideal for more sen­si­tive types as it is abra­sive, so in­creas­ingly peels are be­ing used for resur­fac­ing in­stead.


Rather than lift­ing and tight­en­ing the skin via older sur­gi­cal tech­niques, the non-sur­gi­cal facelift of­fered by Caci uses tiny mi­cro cur­rents to stim­u­late mus­cle tone so it has a firmer base struc­ture for skin, as well as en­hanc­ing and re­vi­tal­is­ing fa­cial tis­sue.


A pre-event pick-me-up favoured by celebri­ties in­ter­na­tion­ally, re­viv­ing tired-look­ing skin with a pres­surised stream of oxy­gen ad­min­is­tered via an airbrush. It’s the spe­cial­ity of El­iz­a­beth Ar­den’s Queen Street sa­lon in Auck­land. Their service de­liv­ers an O2 in­fu­sion of 16 trace min­er­als, sta­bilised oxy­gen and hyaluronic acid into the skin with a re­fresh­ing mist, and can be ad­min­is­tered over makeup if you’re in a hurry.


While they sound in­tense, top­i­cally ap­plied treat­ment peels help your skin do what it does nat­u­rally, but bet­ter. That means re­move the dead, dull top layer of skin to re­veal bright new skin be­neath and bring healthy cells to the sur­face — a nat­u­ral process that slows as we age. There are many dif­fer­ent types that vary in in­ten­sity from gen­tle fruit acids — The Skin In­sti­tute of­fers a pop­u­lar one us­ing pumpkin be­cause of its a high level of vi­ta­min A

— to more se­vere chem­i­cal com­po­si­tions. As well as aid­ing in increased col­la­gen pro­duc­tion, they can re­duce acne, signs of age­ing, and vis­i­ble pores, and im­prove the ef­fi­cacy of your current sk­in­care rou­tine.

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