POSTCARDS FROM PORTLAND
Danielle Clausen falls head over heels for the City of Roses’ creative vibe. Here she shares her address book of must-visit spots
Feeling the creative vibe in the USA
Upon travelling to the ‘Land of the Free’ for the first time, the diet of American pop culture that I grew up on had very much shaped my expectations of a typical neighbourhood in the USA: lined with picturesque houses, manicured gardens and an American flag blowing in the breeze outside each door. The neighbourhoods of Portland, Oregon certainly live up to these aesthetic expectations, bar one – there’s a distinct lack of flags flying in the streets. Instead, front yards are filled with signs of protest, supporting movements like Black Lives Matter. Shop fronts display posters that welcome ALL races, religions, genders and sexual orientations. Within a day of touching down in this Pacific Northwest city, we are quick to learn that Trump is a very dirty word. Liberalism reigns.
Perhaps it’s this penchant for the left that makes the people of Portland (often known as PDX) so partial to a hands-on approach, from artisan chocolate to leather goods. Handmade is the name of the game in this friendly town. So friendly in fact, that when the photographer we are travelling with drives at a snail’s pace to location scout for our fashion editorials (turn to page 108), we don’t get a single toot. Bikes, beards and brews. Fare, fashion and fun. It’s a place for those who enjoy the finer things in life, but aren’t afraid to get stuck in and work hard to create them from scratch themselves.
SHOP
There are three things that make the retail therapy here unique, first and foremost – the strong ‘makers’ culture means each piece you browse more often than not has a fascinating story behind it, and chilled-out shop assistants are more than happy to fill you in. Secondly, rather than vintage being relegated to the outskirts of town, second-hand finds are effortlessly woven through the racks of almost every high-end boutique I step foot in. Oh and did I mention everything is sales tax free?
Powell’s books
1005 W Burnside St, powells.com
Allow at least an hour to get lost in this paper paradise; this iconic landmark is a great first stop to instantly submerge you into the city. Colour-coded rooms mean you can let your interests guide you as you browse. Hot tip: the juicy coffee-table art, fashion and photography books are located on the top floor in the Silver Room.
Wild Fang
404 SW 10th Ave, wildfang.com
Perhaps the strongest local example of fashion and politics intersecting – the day I visit, the window reads Show Up For Trans People in response to the Trump administration’s recent move earlier that week to revoke recognition and protection of transgender people in federal civil rights law. Wild Fang specialises in genderless clothing, slogan T-shirts and sharp tailoring.
Betsy & Iya
1777 NW 24th Ave, betsyandiya.com
Betsy & Iya’s sculptural pieces take inspiration from ancient sites and architecture. Located out the back of this beautiful boutique is the jewellery brand’s very own production studio where you can take a tour to see the unique pieces being crafted by hand.
Danner boots
1022 W Burnside St, danner.com
Founded in 1932 by Charles Danner and as classic as they come, this rustic store offers footwear for all outdoor pursuits and a beautiful sense of the city’s logging history. To this day, a range of styles is still manufactured in the company’s local factory.
Frances May
203 SW 9th Ave, francesmay.com
Like stepping into an uber-stylish apartment, Frances May is a hub for all that is new and fresh – racks are filled to the brim with luxury wardrobe staples. To celebrate its 10th anniversary, store founder Pamela Baker-Miller created a self-titled house line of whimsical dresses that are crafted locally out of deadstock Bemberg rayon.
Back Talk
421 SW 10th Ave, backtalkpdx.com
Like a Pinterest board come to life, the fit out in Back Talk is almost as inspiring as the carefully curated racks. A prime example of PDX’s cross-section shopping culture – vintage, handmade local and neat knick-knacks sit alongside one another with ease. Don’t miss the expertly crafted jewellery pieces from Claire Green.
Johan
632 SW Pine St, shopjohan.com
A minimalist’s paradise, the clean lines of Johan house an impeccable edit of local and international design. Be sure to try on pieces from Portlandian-made brands Laurs Kemp, Open Air Museum and Ara Handbags.
North of West
203 SW 9th Ave, shopnorthofwest.com
This light-filled corner store is the perfect place to pick up a gift for a loved or little one in your life. The boutique’s flagship clothing line features stand out geometric patterns that are printed locally.
House of Vintage
3315 SE Hawthorne Blvd, houseofvintagenw.com
Not for the faint hearted, this eclectic 13,000 square foot second-hand warehouse is a rummager’s paradise. 60 dealers each have a sectioned space in the store, making for a unique assortment at every turn.
EAT & DRINK
The city is littered with endless cafes, bars and restaurants offering ample opportunity to satisfy culinary, coffee or cocktail cravings. New discoveries are tucked away at every corner. If all else fails, ask a friendly local for a recommendation.
Canard
734 E Burnside St, canardpdx.com
With an extensive wine list and polished but relaxed vibes, Canard ticks all the boxes for when you want a beautiful meal minus the fuss. Shamefully, my favourite pick from the menu is the most obvious – the garlic fries served up with Gouda and chilli. Simple but delicious.
Sweedeedee
5202 N Albina Ave, sweedeedee.com
Want to feel like you’re in a friend’s living room having a cosy conversation? Head to Sweedeedee for a filter coffee and a slice of freshly baked pie.
Cup & Bar
118 NE Martin Luther King Jr Blvd, cupandbar.com
Hands down the best avocado on toast I have ever eaten, served atop fresh ricotta and finished off with a generous drizzle of olive oil. This spacious cafe is a must visit for chocolate and coffee lovers too. Trailhead Coffee and Ranger Chocolate have their small-batch factories located on the same premises.
Food carts
Cheap, cheerful and vibrant. Over 600 food carts are scattered throughout the city and offer a diverse range of international dishes to eat on the go. Think everything from Venezuelan through to Turkish and French crèpes.
Oui! at the Southeast Wine Collective
2425 SE 35th Pl, sewinecollective.com
Another fine example of goods being produced in the same place they are sold, the entrance to Oui! is through the Southeast Wine Collective’s urban winery. As well as some of the best wines from the district and abroad, the menu offers incredibly refined share plates. I’m still dreaming about the carrot hummus topped with whole chickpeas, cilantro, nuts, spicy pickled golden raisins and served with flatbread.
Ace Hotel
RELAX
Unwinding has never been so easy thanks to these soul soothing spots. Go with a loved one or spend some time alone.
Jupiter NEXT Hotel
910 E Burnside St, jupiterhotel.com
A fresh and thriving boutique hotel, Jupiter NEXT is as slick as they come – and it attracts a bevvy of revellers to prove it. Located on the ground floor, Hey Love cocktail bar is filled with tropical greenery and 70s vibes. Be sure to try the Secret Life of Plants cocktail, a salty oolong mai tai that won’t disappoint.
International Rose Test Garden
Washington Park, 400 SW Kingston Ave
For sweeping views across the city, take a trip to Portland’s infamous International Rose Test Garden, the perfect place for a stroll.
1022 SW Stark St, acehotel.com/portland
The couches in the Ace Hotel lobby offer a relaxed spot to settle in for some people watching and a coffee from Stumptown Coffee Roasters. Don’t forget to snap a classic film strip pic in the photo booth.
For booking details and travel information on Portland’s thriving scene, head to travelportland.com.