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Saving summer water

TAKING CARE OF A PRECIOUS RESOURCE

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In times of drought, plants may depend on irrigation for sheer survival. But it’s not just a case of life and death. When moisture is lacking plants fail to look their best, they fall prey to pests and diseases and suffer reduced yields.

In arid regions of the world entire societies have been founded on humanengin­eered irrigation systems. Here in New Zealand, our water doesn’t always fall in the right place at the right time, but we’re blessed in this land of plenty with more water than most. It’s a national treasure both culturally and economical­ly, valued not only for growing food but also for pleasure and recreation.

New Zealand’s freshwater quality and availabili­ty is declining. As gardeners, we have a responsibi­lity to think carefully about our water use. As we move into summer, watering efficiency is front of mind.

When to water

How often a garden needs watering depends on the soil type, the climate and the plants we choose to grow. Generally it’s time to water when the top 2-3 cm of soil is dry. Once the plant starts to wilt some root damage will already have ocurred, although some plants with high water needs (e.g. impatiens) make good indicator plants to alert you that it’s time to water. In times of drought, plants may depend on irrigation for sheer survival.

Plants have different requiremen­ts as they age. Seedlings need a little often. Establishe­d trees and shrubs with deep roots can cope on their own for longer, even in quite dry climates. As plants mature, the time between waterings can be lengthened. This encourages deep root growth, improving drought tolerance.

Know your soil

The frequency and volume of water you apply should match you soil type. Once you get to know your soil this becomes instinctiv­e. Porous sandy soils need more frequent watering. Regularly applying compost and organic mulch is the best way to improve the water holding ability of your soil over time. Organic matter also improves drainage and permeabili­ty in heavy clay soils that can become hard baked in summer.

Watering equipment

One of the ways we can prevent water waste is to invest in durable equipment that’s a pleasure to use. It may be as simple as replacing an old leaky tap or hose. Non-kink hoses with easy-to-use attachment­s and handy wind-away hose reels help make watering a pleasure rather than a chore. Even more convenient, a permanentl­y installed irrigation system that’s well-maintained will save time and money. Rain sensor automation and WiFi features are among today’s optional extras. For most of us though, a fabulous watering wand is as high tech as we need to go.

Hand watering

Standing on a summer evening with watering wand in hand while checking plants’ progress is one of the best ways to unwind at the end of the day. This is a good time to water, when baking sun and drying wind won’t evaporate water before it reaches plant roots. Better still, become an early riser; the ultimate time to water the garden is in the early morning. Hand watering is an excellent way to ensure water goes only where it’s needed.

Drip irrigation systems

But for optimum precision, a drip irrigation system offers a level of efficiency that’s hard to achieve with hand watering and can water your plants for you when you’re not home. Soaker hoses and trickle irrigation lines are especially effective when attached to a timer that’s set to apply the amount of water that’s needed and no more.

TIP Roots will naturally concentrat­e in the area where the most water is available. Ideally, place emitters each side of a tree or shrub. For the same reason, it’s best to provide long, slow watering to allow the water to spread throughout the soil.

A soaker hose is a perforated tube that allows water to seep slowly into the soil at a rate that the soil can absorb without being lost to runoff and taking precious soil and nutrients with it. Similarly, a drip line with emitters placed next to each plant delivers moisture directly to the soil. Adjust tap pressure so that the water seeps out slowly. Bear in mind that the water pressure will be highest nearest the tap. Rather than one super long hose, run a series of shorter lines no more than 30m long.

Another tick of approval for drip irrigation is that it avoids wetting leaves and flowers, which is an invitation to disease. Lines can be snaked through flower beds or run in straight rows between vege crops.

While they can be useful for lawns and vege beds, sprinklers must be managed carefully to prevent water being wasted on pathways and driveways and other areas not needed. On the upside they’re highly visible, and therefore less likely to be forgotten when it’s time to turn off the tap.

Irrigating pots and hanging baskets

Pots and hanging baskets can demand a lot of watering over summer. Choose larger containers over smaller ones that dry out quicker, and consider glazed or heavy duty plastic pots for plants with high water needs. Place pots and hanging baskets away from strong wind which can whip the moisture from plants faster than hot baking sun. Grouping pots together is another way to slow moisture loss via evaporatio­n. This also makes life easier at watering time.

Trickle irrigation systems work well for groups of pots or hanging baskets. Hose lines can be concealed along a deck or verandah edge with emitters inconspicu­ously placed.

Drip irrigation delivers water directly to the soil where it’s need, without waste.

Time-honoured traditions

Olla irrigation, often used in permacultu­re, is popular with gardeners drawn to low-tech envirofrie­ndly traditions. The terracotta olla pot is sunk into the ground and filled with water. A lid prevents evaporatio­n loss from the top while the water slowly seeps into the soil at a rate that roughly matches plant needs. This system is most useful in dry sandy soils with low water retention and is most common in parts of the world where the pottery is made locally and inexpensiv­ely. You can make your own Olla by joining two terracotta pots together with a sealant, blocking the hole at the bottom and covering the open hole at the top with a terracotta saucer.

Swale irrigation is another option which works well for fruit trees planted on gentle slopes. The earth is contoured to trap rainwater, allowing it to soak in to the root zone before escaping down hill.

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