WINNING IN THE WEST
The capital of Western Australia seizes the future and preserves the past, writes Judy Bailey.
6
Perth is a city on the move. There may have been a downturn in the mining industry, long the lifeblood of the city, but you wouldn’t know it given the huge construction projects underway. There’s to be a billion-dollar upgrade of the airport to cope with the 200 international flights in and out of the city each day. The new 60,000-seat Perth Stadium promises to be the centrepiece of a redevelopment on the city’s Swan River. Work has started on a new underground city rail link and a new state-of-the-art museum. By 2018, Perth will have 2000 new hotel rooms, from the swanky six-star Crown Towers currently under construction (apparently they’re spending a million dollars on each suite’s interior alone) to four- and five-star brands and serviced apartments.
I’m staying at The Crown’s sister property, the Crown Metropol, right in the thick of casino country. Yes, you can, if you feel so inclined, gamble 24/7 here and many do. Situated as it is, just five and a half hours flight from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, many Asian tourists come to Perth to sample its delights, some of which are banned at home. Rock stars too, are keen on the Crown. Lady Gaga stayed here in the Infinity Suite.
I’m given a rare peek inside. It’s opulent and shiny. It comes with its own spa, gym and massage table, not to mention a karaoke room. Apparently even Lady Gaga felt a little lost in it. She thoughtfully filled it with her roadies and partied into the wee smalls.
A new 40ha development on the banks of the Swan in East Perth will include a natural beach and a large wetland area as well as a range of entertainment, retail and residential options. The newly opened Elizabeth Quay reconnects the city to the river, its centrepiece, a spectacular bell tower. The best thing about it is you can ring the bells, (it must drive the locals bonkers). Sadly however, it’s shut when I call.
Many of the old historic buildings in the CBD, long abandoned, are being snapped up by developers and given a new lease of life. One of the most impressive refurbishments is of the old State Buildings opposite the cathedral. The 140-year old buildings once housed the Lands Department as well as Treasury and it was here the goldminers would come to get title to their claims. Faithfully restored over 20 years by local man Adrian Fini, the building incorporates the best of modern design and attention to historic detail. Fini was last year named West Australian of the Year and with good reason. He has driven much of the revitalisation of the downtown precinct. The plush Como Boutique Hotel opened in the buildings late last year. The State Buildings also house a number of eateries and retail outlets, among them a mouth-watering chocolatier, a custom jeweller, an enticing tea shop featuring an array of fragrant teas and one of my favourites, Clean Slate, an aromatherapy skincare store run by Katrina Snowden. She is about to exchange skills with an Aboriginal community at Port Headland up the coast. She will teach the women how to make soap and in return they will teach her about the native flowers and herbs. Try some of her fabulous lavender pillow spray, guaranteed to give a good night’s sleep.
Another man with a passion for the history of his city is Ryan Zaknich, the enterprising guy behind walking-tour company Two Feet and a Heartbeat. The catchy name came from his mate’s mum who, when he asked for a lift somewhere, would always say, “You’ve got two feet and a heartbeat . . . walk!”
Zaknich is charming and knowledgeable. He is intimately acquainted with Perth’s lesser-known nooks and crannies. He regales me with colourful stories about the past as we stop for a locally brewed beer at Helvetica, one of the many bars and restaurants that pepper the laneways of the CBD.
Further afield, but just half an hour from the city centre, lie the fertile plains of the Swan Valley. The valley’s billed as Australia’s first and only humane food region. Happy critters and happy foodies, it’s a win-win. If you follow the 32km looped food and wine trail you’ll be able to sample a broad range of local produce largely from family-run businesses. There are chocolatiers and nougat makers, there’s a honey specialist, vineyards, breweries and bakeries, specialist cheese makers and nut and coffee roasters. You’ll also find a number of Aboriginal art galleries in the valley. Yes, it’s a perfect place to indulge the senses.
Try the passionfruit curd at The Providore. In fact you can pick up all you need here for a gastronomic picnic on the riverbank.
The Swan Valley is also West Australia’s oldest grape-growing region. We stop for lunch at the Upper Reach Winery. Relative newcomers Laura and Derek Pearse have been making awardwinning wines here since 1999. We sip a Verdelho and watch the bowerbirds strut among the vines. Should you find it hard to leave, they have a turnof-the-century cottage here, complete with log fire and spa so you can stay the night.
Another must-visit is the Romeo family’s Mondo Nougat factory. Not just because you can buy lashings of the sweet Italian treat but also because of the characters behind it. Three brothers, Andrea, Marco and Simone, operate the factory and store. Their parents moved from Italy’s Calabria back in the 1980s. The boys have