PEOPLE’S PLAYGROUND
Eli Orzessek’s guide to Japan’s best snow.
Niseko
One of Japan’s most famous ski resorts, Niseko is 100km southwest of Sapporo. Known for powder, piste, pipes and parks, Niseko has 47km of groomed terrain to explore with trails for skiers and boarders of all levels. The mountain, Niseko Annupuri, actually contains four resorts, with Grand Hirafu being the largest — you can ski between them all and shuttle buses connect their bases. The backcountry can also be accessed through special gates at the resort and there are guided tours and helicopter tours available. There’s also a lively apres-ski scene in Hirafu town, with numerous karaoke bars to sing your lungs out at afterwards.
Hakuba
Favoured by international tourists, this area became well known after hosting several competitions during the 1998 Winter Olympic Games. In the Northern Alps and surrounded by 3000m peaks, the 11 resorts in Hakuba offer a huge variety of runs for skiers and boarders of all levels. After a day on the slopes, warm up at one of the izakayas (gastropubs) in the main village of Habbo, or head to a smaller village for a quieter stay.
Yuzawa
One of the largest and easily accessed ski areas from Tokyo, you can go from city to slopes in less than two hours. The area contains approximately 20 resorts that vary in size from one to more than 30 lifts and all are accessible by public transport. Some resorts offer combination lift tickets, so you need not be restricted to just one. For beginners slopes, stick to the centre of town, and for more challenging runs, head to the Mt Naebe resorts. Known for deep powder, Yuzawa is blessed with an extra long season — some resorts are open from November to late May. The area is also known for onsen (hot springs) so you can soak those achey muscles.
Tomamu
A more upmarket resort, Tomamu is in central Hokkaido and covers two mountains. At the resort, there are an extensive variety of trails to choose from. As well as the usual beginner options, there are several courses aimed at experienced skiers, with expert runs, a terrain park and sanctioned tree skiing — rare at Japanese ski resorts. As well as great skiing, there’s plenty to keep you occupied during a multiday ski trip — including a large wave pool, hot springs, spa and massage services and plenty of places to eat.
Furano
Also in Hokkaido, Furano is a ski resort that’s particularly popular with families. With
25km of ski runs, there are a variety of beginner trails as well as an attraction called Family Snowland, where you can try your hand at other wintery activities, including snowmobiling, parasailing and even dog sledding. There are also runs for the more experienced, with a World Cup-sized half pipe, downhill courses and terrain parks. Plus, you won’t have to wait long to hit the slopes — the lifts here are exceptionally fast.
Nozawa Onsen
This is one of Japan’s oldest, largest and most popular ski resorts. Located 46km from Nagano city, Nozawa Onsen opened in 1924 and features more than 50km of pistes for skiers and boarders of all levels. It’s another great spot for families visiting from overseas, as there are English-speaking instructors available to help kids with their skiing. If you hadn’t already guessed by the “onsen” in the name, there’s also an abundance of hot springs to soak in. Plus, Nozawa Onsen town will charm your socks off with its traditional Japanese buildings and narrow cobbled streets.
Asahidake
For more advanced skiers and boarders, Asahidake is the place to be, with a variety of alpine terrains and tree skiing to tackle. It’s in the unpatrolled backcountry of Hokkaido, but easily accessed by a cable car — and the deep powder here is raved about. In fact, there’s such an abundance of it that the runs at Asahidake are considered some of the best skiing in Japan. Mt Asahi, on which the resort sits, is the tallest mountain in Hokkaido and is also very popular with hikers in the summer. The area was called “kamui-mintara” by the Ainu people of Hokkaido, which means “playground of the gods” — these days, it’s the playground of the people.