GENEVA — JOANNA DUNCAN
Why is Geneva a good destination for Kiwi travellers?
Geneva is a terrific destination in itself, but it’s also a great location for jumping off into the rest of Switzerland and Europe. Everything is so close that it’s possible to do three countries in one day — you could have breakfast in France, lunch in Italy and be back in Switzerland in time for dinner.
What’s your favourite thing about living there?
Geneva is often called “the gateway to the Alps”. In less than an hour you can be in the mountains — as a snowboarder this is a real pull for me. After a weekend in the mountains I can be back in the office on a Monday as refreshed as if I’ve had a two-week holiday.
Geneva is best known for finance, chocolate, watches and the United Nations — what else should be famous for?
Wine! It’s a little known fact, but the Swiss make great wine. It’s so good that very little is exported; they keep it all for themselves. The banks of Lac Leman (the official name for Lake Geneva) are lined with vineyards. Once a year, usually at the end of May, all of the vineyards open their doors to the public for wine tasting.
Is it an expensive city to visit?
Yes, there’s no denying that Switzerland is an expensive place. But as a tourist you can minimise your costs. When dining out, look for restaurants advertising a Plat du Jour, or Menu du Jour. For a fixed menu, you can eat at a fraction of the cost of going a la carte. Soft drinks are as expensive as alcoholic, so ask for “un carafe d’eau” to have tap water instead of bottled and opt for local Swiss wine by the glass or carafe instead of choosing a bottle of French.
What are the locals like?
Geneva is a really international city and 40 per cent of the residents are non-Swiss. It makes it an exciting and vibrant city to live in.
Do most people speak English?
Yes, English is widely spoken and understood. But the Swiss appreciate those who make the effort to say a few short words and phrases in French and you’ll find service is better if you try.
Where is the best part of the city to be based?
Geneva is a small city, so there’s no bad area. The Paquis, which lies between the main train station, Gare Cornavin, and the lake, has a great range of hotels that are better value than many other areas of the city. This is the red-light district of the city, but don’t let that put you off. Like most things Swiss, it’s a regulated business and not as seedy, nor gregarious as in Amsterdam.
What’s the easiest way to get around?
Public transport is excellent. If you’re staying at a hotel, you’ll be provided with a free tourist pass, valid for the duration of your stay. It’s valid on all buses, trams and even some boats. Download the free tpg.ch app and you’ll be able to navigate the city with ease.
When’s the ideal time of year to visit?
Geneva is a year-round destination. In winter, the backdrops of the snow-covered Alps and Jura mountains behind the city are hard to beat. Late spring and early autumn are probably my favourite times of year. The weather is mild, sunny days are frequent and the city has fewer tourists so you can experience life like a local.
What’s the best way to enjoy the lake?
Take a yellow taxi boat called Mouette, which means seagull in English. Just 2 Swiss Francs will take you from one side of the lake to another, or it’s free with the tourist transport pass.
Where’s your favourite place to eat fondue?
La Buvette du Bains at the Bains de Paquis. Dining is a casual affair, you’ll be sitting on benches alongside other groups of diners inside a tent that’s warmed by gas heaters. You order your food and drinks at the bar and it’s cash only. They make the fondue with cremant, a sparkling wine, and the result is a light, fluffy fondue.
And where is a great high-end restaurant?
One of the most famous is Le Lion D’Or up in the hilltop village of Cologny, which is Geneva’s Anieres, Geneva. Picture / Geneve Tourisme version of Beverly Hills. The setting is idyllic and it’s your best chance to spot a celebrity. If like me, you look at the menu and gasp, the bistro next door shares the kitchen but not the prices.
Where would you go for a drink?
Brasserie Halle d’Illes is a lively spot on an island on the River Rhone. In summer, Rooftop 42 is a great place for aperitifs, to look over the lake and watch the sun set behind the Jura. If you fancy a pub crawl, head to Rue d’Henri Blanvalet.
What are the must-see museums?
The Natural History Museum has a menagerie of life-size models of animals from around the globe and entry is free. The International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum offers a unique opportunity to enter into the history of humanitarian action. At the Patek Phillippe Museum you can see the evolution of watch making in Geneva from humble beginnings to world leader, and see timepieces from as early as the 16th century.
Where is the best skifield?
There are dozens of resorts within an hour’s drive of the city. Chamonix is one of the most famous and has some terrific terrain but the pistes can become very busy, particularly on Saturdays. One of my favourites is La Clusaz. It’s a charming and unspoilt resort, relatively free from the large tour operators and for that reason, very popular with the French. There are fabulous options for an on-slope lunch and the apres-ski is low key and sophisticated.
Joanna Duncan is the Geneva-based Global Marketing Director for Insight Vacations