8 GREAT IRISH ESCAPES
Neil Hegarty selects the best ‘green’ breaks on the Emerald Isle
1 Take to the Water
The Blueways — Ireland’s networks of inland waterways — open up bucolic corners of the island. The Shannon Blueway stretches through quiet County Leitrim, and offers 100km of guided kayaking, plus nearly 30km of walking trails. Try the Battlebridge Lock to Acres Lough looped walk (12km) and trip across a floating boardwalk to the lake; or go for a canoe experience, Canadian-style, across the tranquil lakes fringed with green. ● bluewaysireland.org.
2 Clearly a winner
Cape Clear is Ireland’s southernmost inhabited island. A mere 5km long, it’s a wonderful place: tranquil and remote, with birdlife, dry-stone walls and pebble beaches. Visit at summer’s end for the unique and excellent storytelling festival, which draws on the island’s Irish-speaking heritage to marvellous effect. A ferry runs from Baltimore out to the island — and as with all islands, it pays to sort your accommodation well in advance.
3 Barrow by Barge
The river Barrow flows south from the Slieve Bloom mountains to meet the Atlantic at Waterford Harbour — and the Barrow Navigation is one of the great rural experiences of inland Ireland. Walk or cycle the river valley, with its woods, riverside villages, industrial heritage and Neolithic remains — don’t miss the granite Brownshill Dolmen — or brave some of those locks and take in the greenery on a slow-paced barge holiday over seven days.
● Barrowline Cruisers provides two-berth vessels from €830 (NZ$1470) for seven days. barrowline.ie
4 Step up — and step down
The landscapes of the Marble Arch Caves Geopark straddle the Irish border and encompass some of Ireland’s most marvellous scenery. But first, step down — into the depths of the Earth at the spectacular Marble Arch Caves complex, formed from the Co Fermanagh limestone in aeons past, and explore kilometres of caverns on foot and by boat. Above ground, walk the wonderful Stairway to Heaven boardwalk across the blanket bog to the 600m-summit of Cuilcagh mountain — or try a spot of kayaking on Fermanagh’s gentle lakes.
● Cave entry costs from £9.80 (NZ$19.50) adult, £6.70 child. marblearchcavesgeopark.com
5 Follow the greenway
The Waterford Greenway is one of the best of Ireland’s new wave of superb walking and cycling routes. Begin in Waterford city itself and travel south and west through the heart of Co Waterford, with the Comeragh mountains to the north and the Copper Coast Geopark to the south. Don’t miss the gardens at Mount Congreve (mountcongreve. com). The Greenway is great for families: hire bikes — and if the children tire, just catch a handy shuttle bus back.
● Waterford Greenway Bike Hire provides bikes from €20 per day. waterfordgreenwaybikehire.com
6 Into the heart of the Burren
The other-worldly landscapes of the Burren, in Co Clare, disguise a million secrets. This is true karst, where turloughs (seasonal lakes) fill up in winter and vanish in summer — but these harsh fields of white stone hide an undergrowth of orchids and other flora unique in Ireland. It takes an experienced guide to decode this landscape — so join the engaging Tony Kirby for an exploration of botany, history and geology over two glorious hours. Walks take place come rain or shine, so bring all-weather gear and a good pair of boots.
● Itineraries with Heart of Burren Walks cost from €20 person; under-16s go free. heartofburrenwalks.com
7 Walk the Causeway
Tramp the superlative north coast of Northern Ireland via the 50km Causeway Coast Way, which offers dazzling seascapes and an abundance of green-topped cliffs, plus a sequence of world-class attractions. Chief among these is the Giant’s Causeway, with its 40,000 hexagonal columns of gleaming basalt; another is the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, strung vertiginously above the ocean. Experienced walkers can complete the trail in two days; or go slow and enjoy a wealth of dramatic scenery.
8 Seaweed immersion
With its kilometres of Atlantic coastline, superlative beach, surfing, walking and kiting opportunities, Strandhill has more than enough for any visitor: you could spend all day on these wide sands and still not tire of the place. Add the Voya seaweed baths on the seafront for a different kind of greenery, however, and you’ll find a day trip morphing into a weekend. Think deep Victorian baths filled with natural, organic seaweed — good for the skin and hair (and for a hangover). Shells Cafe next door is a marvellous find too, with wonderful baking.
● Voya Seaweed Baths provides a double bathing room from €55 for 50 minutes.
voyaseaweedbaths.com — Sunday Telegraph