GO NOW READY, SET, GO
Feel the buzz as the Japanese capital rises to its moment of glory, says Danielle Demetriou
Tokyo is heating up (and not just in terms of its soaring summer temperatures). The Japanese capital is counting down to its moment to shine in the international spotlight — with the Rugby World Cup kicking off next month and the 2020 Summer Olympics only a year away. There’s a palpable excitement in the city air, it’s hard to keep up with the rush of new hotels opening, and long-term infrastructural projects — designed to make Tokyo not only more attractive, but even cleaner and safer — are drawing to a close.
STAY HERE
Looking for contemporary Japanese design on a budget? OMO5 Tokyo Otsuka is a good place to check in. The hotel — part of a small new chain masterminded by Hoshino Resorts — is in a former office building in Otsuka renovated by architect Tatsuro Sasaki. The 125 rooms are clean-lined, comfortable and contemporary, with light-wood frames inspired by Japanese-style scaffolding. Doubles from $102.
The Andaz Tokyo in Toranomon Hills — a hotbed of pre-Olympics developments — offers a modern touch of luxury (hyatt.com). The hotel balances an intimate ambience with a warm urban decor (think an expanse of dark woods, red leather and abstract sculpture — plus breathtaking floor-to-ceiling views). Doubles from $914.
WALK HERE
Start exploring Tokyo’s more peaceful side with a visit to Meiji Jingu, a historic shrine hidden in Yoyogi Park. In a typical Tokyo juxtaposition, it’s located just behind the bustling chaos of Harajuku Station (take the Omotesando exit). Wander along the long, forest-lined walkway that leads to the elegant shrine gates, before washing hands, clapping and tossing a coin into the central shrine. Next, plunge back into the Harajuku chaos with a stroll along colourful street Takeshita Dori — a bustling showcase of street fashion. Continue along nearby Omotesando, an elegant zelkova tree-lined boulevard with high-end boutiques and a string of iconic architect-designed fashion flagships. At the far end, pop into the serene Nezu Museum to explore its latest exhibition, curated from an impressive collection of Japanese works (from swords to teacups) — finishing up with a stroll around its exquisite gardens.
SEE THIS
Ueno Park, in east Tokyo, is a great one-stop shop
(japan-guide.com/e/e3019.html). It’s home to a string of museums and art galleries, as well as lotus ponds, pagodas, more than 1000 cherry trees and a popular zoo with giant pandas. The Tokyo National Museum is particularly worth visiting, with its heaving collections ranging from calligraphy to Buddhist sculptures (tnm.jp).
TRY THIS
Put on a headscarf and apron, and learn how to make soba noodles from scratch at the friendly Tsukiji Soba Academy run by the charismatic chef Akila Inouye (soba.specialist.co.jp). Sign up for one of an impressive range of workshops (there is even a gluten-free option), most of which guide students through the soba-making process, before consuming your creations.
SHOP HERE
Stock up on green tea in the sleek Marunouchi outlet of the Kyoto tea company Ippodo. Sample an array of teas (ippodo-tea.co.jp/en) before taking your pick in the shop, which also sells crafted tea utensils. There is also the Kaboku Tearoom, where visitors can savour perfectly prepared tea with Japanese sweets. Or for those keen to know their matchas and senchas from their banchas, sign up for an on-site tea class.
DRINK HERE
A trip to Tokyo is incomplete without at least one sunset cocktail in a skyscraper — and a good place to do this is within the timelessly elegant confines of the New York Bar in the Park Hyatt Tokyo, aka that hotel from Lost in Translation. Against a backdrop of live music, nab a window seat, order a cocktail (and savour the 52nd-floor views as the skies darken and the city transforms into a sea of lights. Reservations recommended.
EAT HERE
Sushi lovers would do well to make a special pilgrimage to Ginza Kyubey, a family-run restaurant that is home to a four-storey warren of tatami-mat rooms and sushi counters that serves up highquality sushi (kyubey.jp/en); Steven Spielberg is apparently a regular. Perhaps best of all? The friendly, elderly owner, Imada-san, who makes a point of speaking to every guest. For the Sushi Kaiseki course (strongly recommended), expect to pay from around $220 per person.
OFF THE MAP
Just one hour by train outside Tokyo is Kamakura — a pretty coastal town, packed with old temples, frequented by surfers and surrounded by green mountains. Hire a bicycle next to the station and explore the winding lanes, organic food restaurants, beaches and sights. Don’t miss one of its most famous residents, the oversized Great Buddha of Kamakura, an 11m bronze statue in the grounds of Kotokuin Temple (kotoku-in.jp/en; temple admission $3).