FOUR SEASONS IN ONE LOOP
Rosemary Behan provides yearround options for outdoor lovers in Oregon
An easy loop drive from Portland provides up-close access to two of Oregon’s most spectacular natural attractions, Mt Hood and the Columbia River Gorge.
The winding Route 26 stretches right across the state of Oregon, from the coast to the border with Idaho. Conveniently, it also passes through the middle of Portland, so within one hour you transition from Portlandia-style suburbs to the middle of the Mt Hood National Forest, a natural playground of more than 40,000ha surrounding the state’s highest mountain, a 3429m dormant stratovolcano that’s part of the Cascade Range.
Snow-capped all year, the Mt Hood area is a year-round draw, with thousands of hikes of all lengths through forests made up of fir, hemlock, cedar, pine, maple and black cottonwood.
In the summer, two of the best of these hikes are Ramona Falls, a 13km loop trail that takes you across the Sandy River and through pristine woodlands to the cascading falls and back, and the Mirror Lake/Tom Dick and Harry Trail. It can be cut to 6km if you only wish to hike to Mirror Lake and back.
On a clear day, the second portion of the trail is well worth the extra effort, offering sensational views of Mt Hood with Mirror Lake below it and the vast swathes of forests and mountains in all directions.
Following your hike, you can refuel at one of the small restaurants along the road, including the Zigzag Cafe and Koya Kitchen, which does a good line in sushi and ramen — again, both are open all year round.
The Mt Hood area is home to three ski areas in winter, operating under special licence from the US Forest Service. First, on the right as you drive eastwards through the forest, is Mt Hood Skibowl, which offers America’s largest night skiing area and “cosmic tubing” — a speciallyconstructed conveyor belt takes you and your inflated tube to the top of a slope so that you can race down at night to disco lights and loud music (you can also do this during the daytime without the cosmic theme).
On the left, further along Highway 26, is the turn-off to Timberline Lodge, a historic hotel and National Historic Landmark built in 1937 at an elevation of 1800m. On a clear day in either winter or summer, the view from the road offers sweeping panoramas of the surrounding forest, lakes and mountains as far as the eye can see. The hotel is open to the public and offers a small museum.
Back on Highway 26 and a little further along on the right is Trillium Lake. In summer, drive your car on a small forest road all the way to the lakeshore and enjoy the view of Mt Hood reflected in the clean, spring-fed shallow lake as you walk its 3km loop, stopping to picnic and swim from your own private beaches as you go.
There’s also a campsite, which could hardly be more appealing, but there’s a fee and you should book in advance. Those travelling on more limited budgets and without time to plan can take advantage of free camping elsewhere in the National Forest.
In winter, when many of the small roads are blocked by snow, walk the 3km trail from the carpark on Highway 26 through the woods to Trillium Lake using snowshoes: the lake is fully frozen and offers a completely different though no less satisfying view.
If you are travelling in winter, make a point of also visiting the White River Sno-Park, towards the base of Mt Hood. Take a cheap sledge and tackle as many slopes as you dare. For whoever is driving, Sno-Park permits are required in winter while a Northwest Forest Pass is needed in summer: get these online, from petrol stations or pay a $5 day-fee at certain carparks.
Just after Highway 26 splits off to the east, you’ll take a turn on to Highway 35, which winds north around the base of Mt Hood towards the town of Hood River. In winter, skiers should free up a day for Mt Hood Meadows, the area’s most serious ski resort with spectacular views from the top of its Cascade Express and Vista Express lifts.
The terrain has a wild feel, with minimal signage and some exquisite forested areas, along with all the usual restaurant and gear rental services in the main building. In summer, the less fit can also use some of the resort’s lifts to access hiking areas.
In winter or summer, Tamanawas Falls, an 8km loop along the Cold Spring Creek through dense cedar and Douglas fir to a huge waterfall is rewarding. In summer, cool off in the creek or under the falls; in winter, enjoy deep snow and the partially frozen falls.
From here, Highway 35 takes you down off the slopes of the mountain. The farming town of Odell makes a great scenic stop in summer or autumn when the farms and orchards sell their produce by the side of the road and open their doors for cider-tasting.
After that you’ll reach the small, hip town of Hood River, an outdoor activity lover’s base on
the southern bank of the Columbia River. There’s windsurfing all year round, and kayaking, boating and stand-up paddleboarding during the summer. The historic small town offers great coffee shops and brewery taprooms, including the Double Mountain Brewery.
Here, you’re at the heart of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, which is a spectacular canyon up to 1300m deep.
Driving west, the I-84 Motorway takes you all the way back to Portland but, like Mt Hood, there are countless worthwhile stops and hikes along the way, including the Tom McCall Preserve at Rowena, which is best in spring when the grass prairie flowers, including copious balsamroot, bloom in May. There are great views of the gorge and, on a clear day, of Mt Hood and Hood River to Washington State’s Mt Adams.
Further along on 1-84 (if you have time, divert on to the more scenic and leisurely Historic Columbia River Highway), you’ll come to the town of Cascade Locks and the striking, steel truss cantilevered Bridge of the Gods. For a pick-me-up, stop at the Eastwind Drive-In for icecream, or the Thunder Island Brewing Co, right on the river.
Continuing further west, you’ll come to a string of waterfalls, each with their own set of tempting hikes. Most of these are open all year round and, while pretty in summer, are actually more spectacular in winter and spring when water levels are highest and the fog and mist creates a mystical atmosphere.
While the largest and most famous is Multnomah Falls, a two-tiered, 180m-high waterfall that’s the second-highest in the country, it can be more rewarding to take a loop hike around Latourell Falls, an easy trip offering up-close contact with the falls and their moss-and-fern-covered volcanic surrounds, without many other people. Though it was closed after a tragic forest fire in 2017, the heartbreakingly beautiful Eagle Creek Trail is due to reopen this year and should be on any hiker’s list. From there, it’s only a 45-minute drive back to Portland.