The history of Cooktown

Cooktown has an interesting history. In the late 1800s, its population peaked at 35,000 as prospectors rushed to the area with the promise of gold. Many of that era's buildings still line the main street, along with the stone gutters set down when the town was first settled.

It’s easy to get your bearings in Cooktown. The main street features most of the hotels, restaurants and shops, and leads out to the foreshore redevelopment, which is a popular spot to fish and have barbecues.

The town is a popular stop for grey nomads touring Australia. There is a thriving art scene in Hope Vale and nearby Wujal Wujal. Visitors can also see outstanding Aboriginal rock art galleries at Normanby Station and the nearby town of Laura.

Among the many sites of interest for history buffs is The James Cook Museum, in a former convent, where displays include one of the Endeavour’s bower anchors.

There are great options for food in town. At the RSL Club, just sign the guest book to enjoy a lively atmosphere and lots of seafood staples, such as mussels, fish and chips, and pizzas. Drinks are generous pours for just $5 for a glass of wine. Best of all, it’s open until late whereas many places stop serving at 8pm.

For something a little different, check out the popular Annan Stonegrill, which uses hot stones to cook a variety of meat and vegetables accompanied by delicious sauces. It’s advisable to book: the place was buzzing on a Monday night when I dined. Some may be slightly bemused by the concept of paying to cook your own food.

The Botanical Gardens has many of the species first identified by the Cook expedition, including the Cooktown palm and Cooktown orchid. You will also find Nature’s PowerHouse cafe and gallery, and the main tourist information hub.