The climbing partner who saved Sir Ed
A former climbing partner of Sir Edmund Hillary feels immense pride for saving the life of the great man on a perilous Himalayan expedition.
Brian Wilkins is not well known outside the climbing world but in 1954 he changed history in a little-known high altitude rescue. Wilkins taught at Naenae College and is a Vice President of the Taita Cricket Club.
Now 90, and living in Kelburn, Wilkins and Hillary were part of a New Zealand Alpine Club attempt on Makalu in Nepal – the world’s fifth highest peak - which nearly led to disaster.
The dramatic rescue doesn’t feature in TVNZ’s Hillary, airing currently.
One year after shooting to fame by climbing Mt Everest, Hillary embarked on an expedition which went badly for him from the start.
Burdened with the expectations which came from making history on his Everest ascent, Hillary was underprepared physically and mentally, says Wilkins.
The situation got worse for Hillary, who by then was Sir Edmund, when he helped rescue Wilkins and another climber after they fell into a crevasse.
Hillary broke some ribs and later became extremely ill.
Wilkins and the other climbers, who included Charles Evans and George Lowe who had been on Everest with Hillary, had to make the decision to abandon the climb to save their leader. Severely dehydrated. vomiting and delirious, Hillary was close to death.
Using pack frames and canvas, they slid and carried him down the mountain to reach lower altitudes and safety.
Looking back,Wilkins admits to pride in helping save a man who would go on to win worldwide fame for crossing the South Pole and for his humanitarian work in Nepal.
As one of the last climbers left, who climbed with Hillary in the Himalayas, Hillary, TV One’s toprating dramatisation of Hillary’s life, has stirred up memories for Wilkins.
After Makalu, Wilkins concentrated on his teaching career and had little contact with Hillary, who was a person he liked.
‘‘When we started out in Nepal, the very first night, I spilled a candle and burned a hole in his brand new sleeping bag. He did not complain. When we started off there was no hint of rank, we were all just New Zealand climbers.’’