Let's Travel

MUCH TO DO ON THE KAROO

- Words and images by Gary Dickson

It had been almost 20 years since we had been to Plettenber­g Bay, George and Kysna and into the Klein Karoo. Much would have changed…and it had…for the better. The area is a good 4.5 hours drive out of Cape Town and takes in some spectacula­r scenery along the way – with rugged mountain passes forming the platform from which to see the vast expanse of Africa below you. The pass over the Outeniqua Mountains just north of George is one of the best.

Our first stop, Oudtshoorn, in the Karoo, is famous the world over for The Cango Caves, ostrich farms and the magnificen­t Cango Wildlife Ranch. Twenty years ago this was simply a crocodile ranch, but today it is much, much more.

If I can be excused for utilising an over used colloquial­ism from the youth of today…our kids were uber-excited about the vast array of real life adventures they could choose to do. Cango Wildlife Ranch, whilst nurturing any creature in their care and with an amazing culture of wildlife protection, offer visitors a vast array of amazing animal encounters!!!

Dive with crocodiles (cage optional), spend time one-on-one with a cheetah or tiger (as my family did), have a family of Lemurs playing around you, come to grips with a giant Argentinia­n Tegu (lizard) and much more.

The money they raise from these very special encounters is used to fund the developmen­t of the ranch…they get no special treatment from the government for the amazing work they actually do. So these encounters, whilst memorable to the participan­t, are also crucial to the existence of the ranch. The family was buzzing for days after their encounters.

The ranch is set out for easy walking around, with an elevated walkway above the wildcat enclosures for maximum viewing. From the moment you enter the ranch you will be awestruck. From the cheeky Meerkats, to the albino Porcupines and Bengal Tigers. I hope like hell it isn’t 20 years till we return again.

Whilst the adrenalin was still coursing through the veins we headed to the Cango Caves for a spot of spelunking.

Situated in the Swatberg Mountains, just 30kms north of Oudtshoorn, the 20 million year old Cango Caves system consists of a series of hidden chambers cut deep in to the limestone.

Don’t worry if you get a little claustroph­obic – there are two types of tours. The gentle, easy working, one hour tour which leaves on the hour, or the more intense (read: need some balls here) excursion which leaves at half past the hour and takes a couple of hours to complete.

With names like Devil’s Chimney, The Letter Box and Ice Chamber, the Adventure Tour is not for the faint hearted, nor for anyone of any significan­t girth!!!

The Standard Tour, on the other hand, is most enjoyable and is a must do if you are in the region. Twenty years ago we pulled in to a grotty car park, paid our fee and went in on a tour, that has to be said, went further in to the cave than the Standard Tour does today…BUT today there is magnificen­t Welcome Centre… with a very much nicer car park.

The caves have been used by people in this region for over 80,000 years and were only “discovered” by one Jacobus van Zyl around the 1780’s. The first major hall in the caves is named after

him. The caves remain the oldest tourist attraction in South Africa with an entrance fee of 5 Rix dollars in the 19th century (that’s around 500 Rand in today’s money).

Don’t panic though – the Standard Tour today only costs R75 (about NZ$10) for adults and R35 for children, with the Adventure Tour going for R95 (about NZ$13), so the cost versus the experience is not even up for debate.

After a fist pumping, mind blowing, awe-inspiring day, it was time to turn our sights on our accommodat­ion for the night, in the very centre of Oudtshoorn…the eloquent and very stylish Turnberry Boutique Hotel.

Ideally located and with a traditiona­l Scottish feel to it, the Turnberry is run by Niel Els, a dedicated man who loves hospitalit­y and loves meeting the people who come to stay in his hotel.

With 21 well appointed rooms - all air-conditione­d, satellite TV, mini bar, wireless, and superbly cosy beds, your stay with Niel and his team is bound to be enjoyable.

Make sure you check out the bar he has on his grounds, which the locals also drink at. It’s a magnificen­t way to entwine yourself around the friendly people of the region and, in true South African style a good old fashioned braai was fired up the night we were there.

I can tell you this for nothing; after living in South Africa for four years – there is no better way to end a day than standing around a braai, watching dinner cook, throwing back a few Castle lagers and recounting the events of the day…and in a place like Oudtshoorn… those events can be as many as you want them to be.

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 ??  ?? (Extract from the song “Africa” by Toto 1982)
The wild dogs cry out in the night As they grow restless longing for some solitary company
I know that I must do what’s right As sure as Kilimanjar­o rises like Olympus above the Serengeti I seek to cure...
(Extract from the song “Africa” by Toto 1982) The wild dogs cry out in the night As they grow restless longing for some solitary company I know that I must do what’s right As sure as Kilimanjar­o rises like Olympus above the Serengeti I seek to cure...

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