Fruit bombs lead to more
Has the Central Otago ‘‘fruit bomb’’ style of pinot noir become a thing of the past?
At a recent trade event down in Central, the question was put to the region’s winemakers by a retailer from Hawke’s Bay. He was having difficulty finding those soft, dense, dark, lilac-scented, exuberantly-fruited pinots for which he had an eager clientele. He wanted to know why the region appeared to be moving away from the style that had made it famous.
It was an interesting point. When I think back to the Central pinot tastings of the early noughties, there was a regimental quality to the line-up. That seductive fruit-led style held sway through the ranks.
But things were never going to stay that way.
Fruit bombs were a beginning, and a very good one. Consumers new to the variety were charmed by them. For the winemakers of a young region with plenty to learn, the formula brought instant recognition, which was important. The vines, too, were just beginning their lives, and that showed.
Making great pinot is a quest, by both man and vine. As Central Otago moved from its beginning to the next stage, the strong pinot culture that exists among the region’s winemakers saw a spirit of exploration take hold. Many of WINE them sought to temper their wines’ flavour explosion and achieve more depth, detail, finesse, and structure. In many cases, this has been about doing less and allowing the vineyard to find its own voice.
The results of this exploration were apparent as I tasted the newly released 2014 and 2015 pinots from the region. The wines were more stylistically diverse than I can remember and the tasting was more interesting for that.
This is a good thing, a mature thing. And it’s necessary if the goal is to make wine that captures the hearts of the world’s pinot noir cognoscenti. Of all varieties, pinot noir is not about uniformity, but individual expression.
To return to my original question: does this all mean the fruit bomb has left the building? I can report that no, it hasn’t. The style is alive and well, just less common. A couple of recently-released wines I’d put in that camp are the Akarua Pinot Noir 2015 and the Pisa Range Estate ‘‘Black Poplar’’ Pinot Noir 2015. They’re not lesser in any way than other styles, just different. Importantly, they’re also still
loved by many.
Akarua Pinot Noir 2015 $43
This is a celebration of dark sweet fruit (gently spiced with oak) and textural voluptuousness. Its richness and ripeness make it the perfect partner for a beef bourguignon.
Mount Edward Pinot Noir 2014 $45
Winemaker Anna Riederer has created a lovely mouthful. Attractive red and dark fruit notes mingle with a touch of herbal complexity, but it’s the tight, disciplined structure of this wine that sets it apart. It will cellar well.