Wine writer’s best value drops
After tasting 3000 New Zealand wines for his annual book, Michael Cooper’s final undertaking was to choose his two very best buys of the year - one red and one white.
Whether that job seems enviable or daunting, it’s no small task.
But it’s one that Cooper takes in his stride. New Zealand’s most acclaimed wine writer, he has 40 books - including the country’s biggest-selling wine book, the annual New Zealand Wines: Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide, now in its 25th edition - and several major literary awards to his credit, as well as being appointed an ONZM for services to wine writing in 2004.
So when he says a wine is great - and great value - you sit up and listen.
When you’re faced with 3000 wines, how exactly do you spot just two top ‘‘best wine buys’’? Cooper says it comes down to an ‘‘irresistible combination of quality and price’’.
His best red wine buy of the year is Church Road’s Hawke’s Bay 2014 Syrah.
Retailing around the $20 mark, Cooper calls it a ‘‘sturdy, richly flavoured, bargain-priced red’’ that’s ‘‘serious but highly approachable, with a very fragrant, spicy bouquet’’.
‘‘Mouthfilling and sweetfruited, with an array of blackcurrant, plum, spice and nut flavours, hints of black pepper and licorice and excellent concentration and complexity, it’s worth cellaring, but gentle tannins give it lots of drink-young appeal.’’
Cooper says New Zealand syrah is still often very moderately priced as it’s a new varietal name to most consumers, and therefore a relatively hard sell - but this means a sweet deal for the savvy customer.
‘‘If you haven’t yet discovered the delights of syrah grown in New Zealand, you’re not alone. Many of us are confused because syrah, the classic red-wine variety of the Rhoˆ ne Valley in France, has long been labelled under a different name in Australia - shiraz. But this Church Road red is not to be missed.’’
For the white wine fans, his pick is Villa Maria’s Cellar Selection Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016.
Also around the $20 mark - ‘‘but often on promotion at $15’’ - the wine expert says, ‘‘this classy wine has pretty much everything you could hope for in a Marlborough sauvignon blanc.’’
Already sporting a gold medal from this year’s New Zealand International Wine Show, Cooper calls it ‘‘a five-star wine at a threestar price.’’
‘‘Positioned above the popular, lower-priced Private Bin wines and below the relatively rare, more expensive Reserve and Single Vineyard ranges, Villa Maria’s Cellar Selection wines frequently offer a magical combination of high quality and affordable price.
‘‘It has vibrant, tropical fruit flavours and is deliciously deep, dry and zingy. A compelling wine in its youth, with notable body, freshness and concentration, it’s a bargain-priced partner for poultry, salads and seafood.’’