Get in a pickle over pickles
‘‘When I was growing up we had a large walk-in cellar off the kitchen,’’ says Nelson-based chef and wholefood nutrition expert Nicola Galloway.
‘‘My parents loved to preserve and store food in this cool, dark room, and I can still see the rows of jars lined up on the shelves. Peaches, plums, tomatoes, plum sauce, gherkins, pickles … Maybe this is where my love of getting back to basics came from.’’
Galloway teaches cooking workshops on traditional food techniques including preserving, fermenting, and breadmaking around New Zealand, and is author of three cookbooks, with a fourth – Homegrown Kitchen –to be released in March. She says the increasing interest in preserving is ‘‘partly an awareness of not letting food go to waste’’ and partly ‘‘a counter-response to the busyness of our plugged-in lives – a chance to slow down‘‘.
‘‘Preserving came from a need to use up excess produce when there was a glut in the garden. When you’ve spent time tending to your garden you want to make the most of its bounty.’’
Galloway says those starting out should research proper preserving techniques, including sterilising jars and correct vacuum-sealing. ‘‘It’s actually quite simple, but does require the know-how.’’
‘‘One of the things that provoked me to start Newton&pott was the joy it gave people to receive a homemade gift,’’ says celebrated Kiwi preserver Kylee Newton from her London base, where her handmade pickles, jams, and sauces fly off the shelves and on to the plates of some of the UK’S most discerning customers.
What began as an inexpensive approach to gift-giving more than eight years ago is now a full-scale business, with Newton&pott stocked at many of London’s top foodie spots, accompanied by Newton’s instant cult classic cookbook The Modern Preserver.
Newton, from New Plymouth, says she’s definitely seen a rise in interest in preserves – both the making and eating of.
‘‘It’s losing its twee reputation, as I think people are so glued to their phones or computers with their daily jobs that they crave doing something with their hands, something practical.’’
Newton says pickles are a great starting point for those new to preserving as they are the easiest to create at home. ‘‘Pickles also fit into the healthier lifestyle that people are turning to these days, they offer good bacteria from the vinegars they produce and are great added to meals.’’
Newton started out with ‘‘very basic tools’’, but says having ‘‘a heavy-based pan with a widerimmed mouth is a good start’’.
‘‘Also wooden spoons with very long handles help a lot, with the constant hot spitting of your cooking preserves. And a selection of glass jars and bottles. You can use secondhand, but new rubber sealed lids prove for better longevity, or slip a disk of parchment paper on top so there’s no cross contamination.’’