Fave US canned craft beer hits Kiwi shores
Ireckon Dominic Kelly is a thoroughly decent chap. I’ve known the owner of Wellington’s self-appointed ‘‘cult beer bar’’ Hashigo Zake for more than 20 years and have a great deal of respect for him.
For starters, he took a brave gamble and gave up a lucrative career in IT to open the underground bar in lower Taranaki St long before craft beer was the trendy thing it is today. As someone who, in the mid-90s, left the United Kingdom after a 20-year career in television journalism to come and promote craft beer in New Zealand, I have a good idea of what a gutsy decision that was. But more importantly, I admire Dominic’s principles and the way he does business. Let me give you an example.
In addition to his awardwinning bar and online shop (cultbeerstore.co.nz), Dominic runs a craft beer importation and distribution business called Beer Without Borders. Late last year, he took the decision to start importing beers from one of America’s most successful craft brewers, Oskar Blues. Founded in 1997 in Lyons, Colorado, today Oskar Blues operates breweries in Colorado and North Carolina and is currently ranked 10th largest craft brewery in America (by volume).
However, Dominic identified a potential problem: Oskar Blues’ biggest-selling beer is Dale’s Pale Ale – a beer named after its owner and founder, Dale Katechis – but New Zealand already has its own Dale’s beers. Since 2011 Nelson brewer Dale Holland has produced a range of Kiwi-brewed craft beers under the Dale’s Brewing brand.
To my knowledge Dale (Holland) hasn’t trademarked the Dale’s name in New Zealand, so Dominic would have been within his rights to start selling the Oskar Blues beers here – but he didn’t. Instead, and before importing the first shipment, he first emailed Dale Holland seeking his approval to do so. Dale agreed and the first shipment of four Oskar Blues beers has now arrived and is on sale.
While I applaud Dale Holland’s magnanimity, I suspect he’s not too concerned about people mistaking his beers for those of his higher-profile overseas namesake. And not without reason: Dale Holland’s beers are packaged in bottles, both 330ml and 500ml, while the Oskar Blues beers all come in 355ml cans.
Having begun hand-canning their beers one at a time at the original brewpub in Lyons, Colorado in 2002, Oskar Blues is regarded as the brewery most responsible for America’s growing love for canned craft beer. Previously, as was the case here in New Zealand, canned beer had been the exclusive domain of mainstream and budget brands.
From the point of view of transportation and storage, canning is a no-brainer: cans are much lighter, easier to stack and far less bulky than bottles, therefore offering reduced costs. BEER But more importantly – and contrary to many people’s prejudices – canned beer often actually tastes better than its bottled counterpart. The majority of pale ales and golden lagers, especially those with a heftier dose of hops, are susceptible to ‘‘lightstrike’’, an unpleasant, cabbagelike aroma and flavour which is produced when acidic compounds in hops react with bright light. Clear and green bottles offer little protection, while dark brown bottles are somewhat better. Cans however protect the beer totally.
Dominic was kind enough to send me samples of the four Oskar Blues beers from the first New Zealand shipment. All are wellworth investigating.
First off the ranks is Mama’s Little Yella Pils (5.3 per cent, 35 IBUS). The brewery’s claim that it’s ‘‘an uncompromising, smallbatch version of the beer that made Pilsen, Czech Republic, famous’’, is worth taking seriously. Made with American pale malt and German specialty malts and gifted with four additions of Saaz hops, this bright golden brew offers a zingy, spicyfloral aroma and palate over a slender, sweetish, bready malt base and a lengthy off-dry finish. The overall effect is distinctly central European.
Next up is the aforementioned Dale’s Pale Ale (6.5 per cent). Pouring a bright amber hue, robust hopping with Pacific Northwest-grown varieties (Northern Brewer for bittering, Cascade and Columbus for flavour, and a big, post-boil addition of Centennial for aroma) provides the expected blast of citrus and pine notes and a lingering appetising bitterness (65 IBUS), all deftly held in balance by a rich, sweetish, toffee-like maltiness. It’s one of my go-to beers when I’m travelling in the United States, and I’m pleased to report the first imported batch seems to have reached these shores in fine fettle.
Then there’s the inevitable IPA. But this one’s an IPA with a difference. At 6.43 per cent and 70 IBUS, Oskar Blues IPA is paler and a shade lower in strength than Dale’s Pale Ale, but more bitter. However the biggest difference is in the brewery’s choice of hops. Four Australian varieties (Enigma, Vic Secret, Ella, Topaz and Galaxy) contribute luscious pineapple, melon, pine and grapefruit notes, while a grist of barley and wheat reward this lightly hazy, golden brew with a clean, lightly caramelised malt backbone. The finish is light, crisp and dry.
The fourth beer in the current shipment is an Imperial Stout. Described by the American magazine Celebrator Beer News as ‘‘The biggest, baddest, boldest beer in a can’’, Oskar Blues Ten FIDY (10.5 per cent and 65 IBUS) pours an inky black hue beneath a big beige head. Hiding the alcohol deceptively well, this viscous, silky-textured stout features a generous grain bill of pale and chocolate malts, roasted barley and flaked oats. Expect dark chocolate, caramel, vanilla, liquorice and coffee notes, all finely balanced by a hefty dose of hop resin and bitterness.
The Oskar Blues beers are currently in short supply, but can be found at specialist retailers around the country (try Regional Wines in Wellington; The Fine Wine Delivery Co and Liquorland Newmarket in Auckland; and The Beer Library in Christchurch). Meanwhile, Dominic tells me more should be on their way here soon.
Cheers!
More importantly, canned beer often actually tastes better than its bottled counterpart.