Manawatu Standard

Red devon breed is tasty and tender

- JILL GALLOWAY

Red devon cattle are underrated when it comes to producing tasty meat, says a winning farmer at the Steak of Origin contest, which finds the tastiest and tenderest steak.

Graeme Dyke came fourth overall for his sirloin entries when it came to chefs tasting 20 steaks in the final and won the Best of Breed- British: Other, with his red devon heifer. He also won a bronze medal with another red devon heifer in the same class.

He ran 120 purebred registered breeding cows, and seven stud bulls at his farm east of Pahiatua. He sold about 30 bulls a year from the farm to clients who were beginning to realise the benefits of the breed.

Dyke is a great supporter of the red devons.

He said the heifers which he put forward for the competitio­n were 21 and 26 months old.

‘‘I think the meat is really tender from all these cattle, because the temperamen­t is so good.

‘‘They are the quietest and easiest cattle to handle.’’

As long as the animal was killed properly, the correct level of ph could be maintained which helped with tenderness.

‘‘I have had red devons for 18 years and have not had one wild one. Unlike some other breeds, the genetics of the red devon have never been messed with.’’

He said both heifers had average intra muscular fat levels, and he was surprised both got into the final of the steak competitio­n.

The contest started with 305 entries and then 20 were selected for the finals.

They were all cooked and tasted by a panel of chefs.

Dyke said he only runs red devons and had leased some of his farm as he eased up on cow numbers and the work involved.

‘‘Now I am 60, I am taking it a bit easier. This season I only have 59 to calve. But we are at 2000 feet above sea level. The red devons cope with the cold, the wind and the snow which we get. And if in summer if there is a drought, they cope with that well too.’’

Dyke said there were documented cases of red devons in Australia being he only cattle ‘‘still standing’’ when others were dead from drought.

‘‘If you go to the UK and ask top chefs what meat they like. They will tell you ruby red devon meat. It is the same as the breed red devon here.’’

He said in New Zealand angus is the most popular.

‘‘I won’t say anything against them. They have been well promoted and I recognise that.’’

But he said over the years he had eaten lots of red devon meat, and had not had a bad experience.

The breed was getting more popular, he said.

‘‘My business is selling bulls here on the farm. I sold bulls to a guy between Wairoa and Gisborne. He sold his crossbreds once at the sale, and people realised how good his cattle were. Now he sells all his weaners on-farm as people realise how well they do, even in a drought. I could tell you lots of stories like that.’’

This year he expects to sell about 25 bulls.

Dyke said he would enter the Steak of Origin competitio­n again next year in an effort to promote the red devon breed more.

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