Swede dreams
Iwould love to see the more obscure vegetables become heroes on our tables. Swede is often overlooked at the shops but has so much potential. It is sweet and crunchy when eaten raw, cut into thin crudites with carrot and celery to serve on a platter with dips.
You can mix grated swede with cabbage and fennel and bind them together with a creamy mustard dressing for a punchy coleslaw – see recipe below. Roast it, mash with carrot (a firm childhood favourite), and, when added to a casserole, it brilliantly absorbs all the delicious flavours.
This casserole will see us through the last of the winter nights. It is simple and hearty, and is designed to be served with a spoon and accompanied with fresh baked sourdough to soak up the gravy. Or, for a substantial gluten-free option, serve with nutty brown rice.
Casseroles (and stews) rely on timely layering of flavours. A culinary tip I learnt during my chef training, and one I now share with my own culinary students, is to add a pinch of salt with each new ingredient.
So, one with the onions, then again with the meat, and another one with the vegetables.
This way, the salt gently infuses from the inside out rather than attempting to salt from the outside in once at the table.
Swede, beetroot and venison casserole with sauteed chard Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 2 hours Serves 4
■ 1 tablespoon olive oil
■ 1 large brown onion, roughly chopped
■ 1⁄2 teaspoon salt added in pinches (see above)
■ 500g venison or stewing beef (such as shin, chuck, blade), cut into 2cm cubes
■ 1 teaspoon dried marjoram or oregano
■ 2 teaspoons whole grain mustard
■ Generous twist of black pepper
■ 1 heaped tablespoon flour
■ 400g swede, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes
■ 1 small beetroot, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes
■ 2 carrots, roughly chopped into 2cm pieces
■ 750ml beef or vegetable stock
Sauteed rainbow chard
■ 5-6 leaves rainbow chard or silver beet
■ 1 tablespoon olive oil
■ Generous pinch of salt
■ 2 tablespoons boiling water
Heat the oil in a large lidded casserole dish over a moderate heat.
Add the onion and a pinch of salt, and cook until lightly golden. Add the venison, another pinch of salt, marjoram, mustard and pepper, and cook over the heat for two minutes until the meat is browned.
Add the flour, vegetables and another pinch of salt, and muddle with a wooden spoon to combine. Add the stock, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and bring to a gentle simmer.
Cook gently over a low heat for two hours. Alternatively at this stage, transfer the hot casserole to a slow cooker on low for 3-4 hours. Once cooked, adjust seasoning to taste.
To make the sauteed chard: when the casserole is cooked, wash and roughly chop the chard. Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over a moderate heat. Add the chard, salt and hot water and immediately cover with a lid.
Cook for 5-6 minutes until the greens have wilted, then remove the lid and stir over the heat until the moisture has evaporated. Serve the casserole topped with sauteed chard and accompanied with slices of crusty bread or brown rice.
Swede slaw with creamy mustard dressing Preparation time: 15 minutes Serves 4
■ 2 cups grated swede
■ About 3 cups green cabbage, finely shredded
■ 1 small fennel bulb, finely sliced
■ 1 tablespoon chopped fennel fronds or parsley
■ 2 tablespoons natural yoghurt
■ 1 tablespoon mayonnaise
■ 1 tablespoon olive oil
■ 1 tablespoon lemon juice
■ 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
■ Good pinch of salt
Combine the swede, cabbage and fennel in a bowl. In a jug, mix together the remaining ingredients then fold the dressing through the vegetables. Serve.