For kiwi eyes only
From a goblin forest to hot spring stargazing, it’s time to explore New Zealand. Last week, our backyard bubble was the size of our property. Now, it’s the length of the country. While much of the world grapples with ongoing lockdowns, the most beautiful country on Earth is open – for us only.
We’ve scoured the country, from Northland to Otago, for some of our best backyard secrets.
Railbiking – Gisborne
An old section of the Gisborne to Napier rail line hosts an epic adventure through native bush, a 1.5km tunnel, and eventually up to a secluded ocean lookout. A New Zealand-first design sees two push bikes fused together on a rail line, with a steel chassis holding them in place. All you need to do is pedal, There’s no steering, and you can’t fall off.
Getting there: Various meeting points near Gisborne, depending on the trip.
Cost: Half-day trip for $70 (out of lockdown special until August).
Tell me more: railbikes.nz.
Orakei Korako - Taupo
A hidden steaming valley – 30minutes from Taupo¯
– is home to one of the country’s most active geothermal areas.
The moment you arrive at the car park, you’re transfixed. ra¯kei Ko¯rako is a geothermal version of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Across a river is an almost mystical landscape where geysers, hot springs and bubbling pools sit below a continual vortex of steam.
The anticipation only rises, as you board a boat to cross the river and hop on a boardwalk that snakes through the cauldrons of curiosity.
You’ll pass more than 20 geysers, hot springs and mud pools on your self-guided walk through the park – there’s even a rare geothermal cave to walk down to – one of only two known to exist in the world.
Getting there: 45-minute drive south of Rotorua or 30-minute drive north of Taupo¯.
Cost: $31.20 an adult (with 20 per cent reopening special).
Tell me more: orakeikorako.co.nz.
Goblin Forest
If you’re looking for a short family-friendly walk that appears straight from amovie set, head to the eastern slopes of Mt Taranaki where you’ll find the Dawson Falls walking tracks.
This area of the mountain is home to what’s known as the Goblin Forest. Its magical appearance is thanks to an eruption 400 years ago, where ka¯mahi trees grew up through dead bush, almost like ancient moss-covered fingers reaching from the depths of the soil.
There are several walks to choose from, but one of the best is the 20-minute walk to the Wilkies Pools, where you’ll find a series of slides and pools formed in a 20,000-year-old lava flow. Beware, the water is very chilly.
Getting there: One hour from New Plymouth. Cost: Free.
Tell me more: DOC.
Hot spring stargazing
In the heart of the South Island, near glistening glacial lakes and framed against toweringo¯ snowy mountains, you’ll find Tekapo Springs. While gorgeous by day (especially in winter), at night the pools host aworld-class experience.
The region is home to an internationally recognised Dark Sky Reserve, and what better place to watch the Milky Way than at midnight in a hot spring.
For an hour, you’ll lie on an underwater hammock and listen to an astronomy expert, with a powerful laser, point out incredible sights (like the hottest planet in our solar system, at 450 degrees Celsius). It’s a night you’ll never forget, just try not to fall asleep in the toasty waters.
Getting there: You’ll be picked up from Tekapo Village.
Cost: $99 per adult
Tell me more: tekapostargazing.co.nz.
River sledging
Think New Zealand’s only rollercoaster is at Rainbow’s End? In Rotorua, you’ll find awet version: it’s called river sledging.
You’ll be given a specially made bodyboard, which you jump on to ride down whitewater rapids – it’s not for the faint-hearted.
The trip is along the Kaituna River, best known for its 7-metre waterfall that people fly over in rafts.
But fear not: sledging starts in the whirlpool at the bottom of the waterfall. There, your guides issue military-style instructions for each rapid, including what to do if you flip over.
By the way, if this happens – you need to perform a hula-hoop type thrust of the hips to get your sledge back upright. It turns out, my thrusting needs a little work. When I flipped, instead of an elegant hula hoop, I resembled an ostrich attempting the macarena.
We continued down the river for 40 minutes, flying down rapids such as the Cheese Grater with ease. If you’re an adrenaline junkie and want to try something different from rafting, this is for you. Getting there: Free pickups in Rotorua. Cost: $120 a person. Tell me more: kaitiaki.co.nz (opens in level 1).
Hidden temple of food
Christchurch’s Riverside Market is a bustling hub of local artisans, in a chic shed near the Avon River. The entrance is a laneway off Cashel Mall, lined with gems such as The Butcher’s Pie Shop.
Walk through the sliding doors to the market, and it’s like you’ve arrived in the city’s hidden temple of food. And worship takes place daily.
There are dozens of enticing stalls – from the Bohemian Bakery, Donut Dispensary, Kombucha Girls, Empire Chicken, Cluck Cluck Slurp, The Kathmandu Momo House, and the social media sensation that is Moustache Milk and Cookie Bar.
The brilliant thing about the market is that local artisans can rent a single shelf – so even those just starting can show off their goods.
Getting there: Central Christchurch Cost: Depends on hunger level.
Tell me more: riverside.nz.
Hanmer Springs’ new slide
Almost $5 million has been spent giving Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa a facelift, with a giant new slide, and a series of cascading pools set among river boulders.
But the most breathtaking attraction – literally – is the slide known as the Conical Thrill. Board a two-person tube that snakes around a few bends then, all of a sudden, the slide gives way to a steep drop that provides enough speed to launch up a near-vertical wall. Afterwards, head to the hot pools to warm up, or back up the slide for another round of fun (or terror).
Getting there: 90-minute drive from Christchurch, in Hanmer village.
Cost: $35 adults, $89 two adults and three children (includes pools and slides).
Tell me more: hanmersprings.co.nz (reopening tomorrow).
Private rockpool escape
If lockdown has you longing for a luxury adultsonly escape, look no further than The Glasshouse, which is nestled on its own peninsula, about 40 minutes outside of Whangare¯i.
There you’ll find a state-of-the-art glass bach, a luxury outhouse with a glass-fronted shower overlooking the ocean, and a private rockpool by the sea. If you want to seriously impress someone, this is the place to surprise them.
Getting there: Three hours’ north of Auckland. Cost: From $1250 a couple.
Tell me more: theglasshousenz.com.
Tunnel Beach
The beauty of Dunedin’s wild coast is best enjoyed with a trip to Tunnel Beach. The raw landscape has been sculpted by rough seas over thousands of years, leading to sea arches, cliffs and golden bays.
When you reach Tunnel Beach, its beauty is captivating but looks impossible to reach. That is, until you discover the hidden tunnel.
The founder of Otago settlement was William Cargill. His son, John, ordered a tunnel dug to a hidden beach in the 1870s, supposedly so his family could have a private place to bathe.
Now, you can enjoy it, just remember that it’s too dangerous to swim.
Getting there: 15 minutes from Dunedin. Cost: Free.
Tell me more: DOC.
Jungle hot springs
We’re heading into winter, and the perfect place to ride out the cold is in a hot spring cave with a cocktail in hand.
The adults-only Lost Spring is themed around a jungle spa, and the moment you step inside you’re transported to a Jurassic paradise: the water bubbling up into the pools is thought to be 16,000 years old.
The rock pools weave through the forest, designed to look like a tropical jungle, with walking tracks with swing bridges. There’s even a geothermal cave. And being adults-only, you can take your cocktail or wine in the pool.
Getting there: Whitianga, 2.5 hours from
Auckland.
Cost: From $45 (reopening May 29). Tell me more: thelostspring.co.nz.