Marlborough Express - Weekend Express

Sticking up for our fish against humanity

- Flip Grater is a musician, author and co-founder of the Christchur­ch plant-based foods business Grater Goods.

I’m 15. Shaved hair and DIY piercings. I’ve just attended my first music festival in Tākaka and my friends drop me off in French Pass for a camping holiday with my father, his girlfriend and her young children.

Day one we head out on a boat for a fishing expedition. It’s sunny, gorgeous even. We’re all pumped. I’m happy to be there. Loving the outdoors, the fresh air.

Someone’s rod pulls, excitement takes over the boat. The fish is reeled in with glee. The kids get out their “whacking sticks” and giggle with delight as they jump around smacking the fish to death. It flops around on the floor of the boat, taking a long time to die. I watch it all unfold, curled into a ball in the corner.

When we return to the shore I tearfully tell my father I will not be eating animals any more. And I never did.

Hard to relate? What if it had been a cat being killed to the soundtrack of giggles?

Fish are sentient, both scientific­ally and legally. For a long time it was thought that they don’t feel pain but that myth has been thoroughly debunked. The science even says that they have feelings and thoughts. So why do we treat them so differentl­y to other sentient beings? Why is it so easy to dismiss their suffering?

It feels like a failure of imaginatio­n. We understand that dogs matter because they’re familiar. We look into their big eyes and we see something familiar in them. They follow instructio­ns and respond to our needs.

We know that pigs are smarter than dogs. That cows have emotions. Yet none of that changes how we treat “commodi

ty” animals versus “companion” animals. We intellectu­ally know they’re all living beings and have legal and moral rights but species-ism has nothing to do with intellectu­alism. It has everything to do with empathy. And our tendency to pick and choose to whom we extend it.

Empathy stems from the brain lighting up when we observe someone else perform an action in the same way as if we had performed that action ourselves. So when a human or animal behaves in a way we recognise, it’s easier to care about them. This gives an automatic advantage to land animals when seeking kindness from humans. Slimy water creatures are

an extra step removed from our human experience, so it’s harder for us to care about them.

It’s interestin­g that we make an exception to the slimy water animal rule for dolphins and whales. They’ve proven their intelligen­ce and “human-like behaviours” sufficient­ly for us to value them.

Those poor dumb fish don’t deserve decency because of their little brains and propensity to follow each other around. Although so do birds, and we revere them. Kill a bird for fun and it’s a symptom of psychopath­y. Meanwhile every second dude on a dating app is proudly posing with the dead body of a fish, and walls across the world are strewn with their trophy corpses.

Aotearoa is considered the sustainabl­e fish-farming capital of the world, as promoted in our salmon industry’s PR campaigns. Of course it’s completely untrue but who cares, right? It’s just fish.

It’s also our oceans though. And we love swimming. From an environmen­tal perspectiv­e, New Zealand’s salmon farming is a disaster. It just happens to be moderately better than some overseas, hence the successful spin. But it’s still destroying our coastlines and waterways. It’s also absolutely brutal on the fish. The welfare guidelines for fish farming were created (and are policed) by the industry itself; those whose financial interests are in conflict with animal welfare.

Extreme crowding, disease, spine deformatio­n and anxiety are just some of the well-documented and common aspects of intensive salmon farming. As an accepted industry standard, 20% of fish will die prematurel­y, usually from stress or disease.

The most toxic effect of Aotearoa’s greenwashi­ng campaign is gaslightin­g Kiwis into thinking our own backyards are 100% pure when in fact our short-sighted choices have led to unswimmabl­e rivers and beaches, and once arable land being raped beyond all use.

It’s time for us to move away from further intensific­ation of retro proteins and invest in sustainabl­e, future-focused industries that bring economic gains to this country without destroying it.

 ?? DAVID ALEXANDER ?? Fish freshly harvested from the sea. Humans don’t readily feel empathy for slimy sea creatures, which Flip Grater argues leads to our callous treatment of them.
DAVID ALEXANDER Fish freshly harvested from the sea. Humans don’t readily feel empathy for slimy sea creatures, which Flip Grater argues leads to our callous treatment of them.

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