Marlborough Express

Chefs weigh in on plating debate

- KELLI BRETT

The 2017 Cuisine Good Food Awards category winners share thoughts on the art of plating up.

Jeremy Rameka, Pacifica

Smear: Has been bastardise­d and can lead to a look of laziness if not executed well.

Foam: If used intelligen­tly it’s a technique for delicate infusion of flavour and/or texture. Dust: Love the dust. Flowers: Get used too much for looks, not flavour. Smart applicatio­n can enhance the dish.

No rules: You need to know the rules to be able to break them.

Myapproach: I try to plate how I like to eat, looking particular­ly at what needs to be eaten together or separately. Presentati­on has always been secondary to flavour. I’ve learnt to leave out what doesn’t add to the flavour and texture of a dish.

Ed Verner, Pasture

Smear: Well and truly dead. Foam: Natural foams such as dairy, which naturally aerates when heated, are OK. Most people seem to really enjoy one on the top of their coffee each morning.

Dust: I’m not sure about the word ‘‘dust’’, but powders can be very useful.

Flowers: Only if they have a purpose – they are too often used just for looks and colour.

No rules: Only Massimo Bottura would be capable of doing that and having it end up edible and attractive.

Myapproach: My main considerat­ion is how the dish eats, followed by keeping only what is essential on the plate. Sometimes a dish is just about one ingredient and I purposeful­ly keep the colours and style very muted to focus in on that ingredient. Other times it can be more playful and I’m looking for contrastin­g colours and textures.

Sid Sahrawat, Sidart & Cassia

Smear: Is out as it doesn’t add to the dish unless it is to build the components of a dish.

Foam: A good way of saucing a dish but with less volume because of the air introduced.

Dust: If there is a relevance to the dish, helps in the aroma of the dish.

Flowers: Flowers of herbs or vegetables are a great way to finish a dish.

No rules: It’s not my thing but I guess for some chefs the plate is like a canvas.

Myapproach: I first decide the core ingredient, which doesn’t always have to be a protein. Then I work around that ingredient and its compositio­n. I plate a dish the way it will eat the best.

Vaughan Mabee, Amisfield

Smear: Not my style any more – it’s dated and boring.

Foam: It has its place in some dishes, but the espuma version.

Dust: Sounds like a grandma’s living room – we use powders (such as seaweed or mushroom) for flavour enhancemen­t.

Flowers: We use wild onion flowers or sage flowers. I hate micro greens.

No rules: I love Massimo, I really do, but with a global team, without rules there would be complete chaos.

Myapproach: I think of what we are cooking, where it came from, and plate it back to where it’s from. We honour its life. We create a flavour from what we remember and revive it.

James Beck, Bistronomy

Smear: I love the smear, the smudge, the swoop – done well.

Foam: Why the angst against the foam? I use cream foams (sparingly) because it’s a great way of lightening a sauce.

Dust: If relevant. We serve beef short rib with a smoked marrow and nettle bone broth. As well as infusing the broth with nettle, we make a powder of nettle, which we dust over the dish. The server pours the broth at the table, which dissolves the powder, creating an extra nettle aroma and infusion.

Flowers: I love the flowers of herbs where appropriat­e.

No rules: If everything goes out looking like a train smash, your guests are going to start thinking you’re not trying hard enough.

Myapproach: I think about how I want my guests to eat a specific dish. No 1 rule… If it doesn’t have a good reason to be on the plate, don’t put it there.

 ?? LAWRENCE SMITH/STUFF ?? Sid Sahrawat, head chef and owner of Sidart restaurant in Ponsonby, Auckland.
LAWRENCE SMITH/STUFF Sid Sahrawat, head chef and owner of Sidart restaurant in Ponsonby, Auckland.

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