Marlborough Express

Wine glass wash rules evolve

- CATHY GOWDIE

It’s after midnight. The prosecco, pinot gris and tempranill­o are gone, along with the dinner guests who had to get back to the babysitter/back on Tinder/back on the wagon. There were only six of them but there’s a wedding’s worth of grubby glasses on the table.

Will you make like Martha Stewart and line the sink with a fluffy towel before tenderly washing each wine glass by hand? Play dishwasher Tetris and cram in the lot? Or will you flee the scene until tomorrow?

If it’s the latter, you’re in the company of pros.

‘‘After entertaini­ng at home I now have a rule that I wash all glasses the next afternoon,’’ says consultant sommelier Mark Protheroe, the co-owner of Melbourne’s Recreation bistro and bottle shop.

A former sommelier for the Grossi group and The Age Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year, Protheroe finds he has fewer breakages that way.

When the time comes to tackle the job, hand-washing purists look askance at those who reckon the dishwasher is there for a reason. Sorry, hand-washers – it’s been a long campaign but the dishwasher faction is definitely gaining ground.

Why so? Dishwasher­s have improved, and glass manufactur­ers have got better at making ‘‘stems’’ that will survive mechanical cleaning.

Although traditiona­l cut crystal such as Waterford or Stuart can be damaged by harsh detergents and high temperatur­es – and may develop a cloudy haze if not washed by hand – the current generation of finer, thinner wine glasses is increasing­ly designed for the dishwasher.

Global wine guru Jancis Robinson favours Riedel glasses for everyday use; for special occasions and wines, she likes a super-fine Zalto model. ‘‘Both, thank goodness, are absolutely fine in an ordinary dishwasher,’’ she writes in her 2016 guide-tobasics book, The 24-Hour Wine Expert.

The Australian brand Plumm says its entire range of modern crystal glasses is dishwasher­friendly; the fact that they are widely used in restaurant­s testifies to their durability.

That said, dishwasher­s can leave glasses with a detergent residue with potential to affect the smell and taste of wine.

It can also cause bubbles to quickly fall flat.

Protheroe says: ‘‘A good rinse is very important. If using a commercial dishwasher your rinse cycle is crucial. At home, I rinse all my glasses after going through the dishwasher.’’

While some manufactur­ers recommend a polishing cloth to ‘‘finish’’ glasses, Protheroe prefers air drying where possible. ‘‘Introducin­g a polishing cloth is just another potential cause of offaromas and breakage.’’

If you do use a cloth, make sure it is free of odours and lint. ‘‘Try to use two, as it seems to break less stems.’’ - Fairfax

 ?? DEAN KOZANIC/STUFF ?? Being able to get your wine glasses shining shouldn’t be too labour intensive.
DEAN KOZANIC/STUFF Being able to get your wine glasses shining shouldn’t be too labour intensive.

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