Dig the humble potato
Iam learning to embrace the humble potato. They were a rare occurrence on our family table while growing up. My most vivid potato memory was a rehydrated version during Mt Robert family ski weeks. This was a weight necessity as it was a two-hour hike to the skifield but I am sure I wasn’t the only person to be turned off mashed spuds as a result of the reconstituted potato that was dished up. Three decades later I am learning to appreciate the versatility of this modest root. Floury agria mashed with butter and cream perfectly soak up the juices of a winter cassoulet, or a potato gratin sweetened with slowcooked onions and fresh thyme that has serious comfort factor. With new potatoes arriving at shops and markets, it is time to put down my quarrels and pair their sweet flesh with some fresh spring flavours.
Roasted smashed potatoes with spring greens sauce
This is a simple but rather delicious way to prepare smaller-sized new potatoes. Parboiled potatoes are gently smashed to open up the inside flesh, drizzled with a flavoursome butter of your choosing, then roasted until golden and crispy skinned. For dinner serve these with steamed mussels and pan-fried fish for the little people. The leftovers can be lightly fried into a hash the next morning and topped with fried eggs. Or mix it up and have the eggs with the potatoes for dinner.
Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 40 minutes Serves 4 as a side
■ 800g small new potatoes (I used red-skinned Pyper’s Petites) ■ 1 teaspoon salt
Rosemary and garlic butter
■ 3 sprigs of rosemary leaves, finely chopped (about 1 tablespoon) ■ 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped ■ 50g butter ■ 2 tablespoons olive oil
Miso butter
■ 1 rounded teaspoon dark miso (I used Urban Hippie soybean miso) ■ 50g butter ■ 2 tablespoons olive oil ■ Chopped parsley and wedges of lemon to serve Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Wash potatoes and place in a large saucepan. Add the salt and cover with boiling water (start new potatoes in boiling water as they are lower in starch). Boil for 15 minutes until the potatoes just yield when pierced with a fork. Drain well and return the pan to the heat to evaporate any lingering moisture. Tip into a roasting dish and use the base of the saucepan to press and squash the potatoes until they open up. If they are perfectly par-boiled they will burst quite easily, otherwise it might take a bit more pressure. To make the rosemary or miso butter, combine the ingredients in a small saucepan and gently melt. Drizzle over the hot, smashed potatoes and place the dish into the oven. Roast for 20-25 minutes until the potatoes are golden. Serve drizzled with spring greens sauce, alongside pan-fried fish or steamed mussels and a green salad.
Spring greens sauce
The greens are still dominating the garden as I patiently await the summer produce to grow. I love catching the broad bean pods while they are still small (about finger width). The bitterness isn’t too pronounced at this size, and they can be used either raw in salads or in this simple green sauce that can be drizzled on every (savoury) meal. Fresh or frozen peas can also be used in this recipe if broad beans aren’t available or not to your taste, although the smaller beans are quite different to their starchy elder.
Preparation time: 10 minutes Makes about 250ml
■ About 1⁄2 cup small fresh broad beans (podded) or peas ■ A bunch of Italian parsley, about 50g ■ 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped ■ 2 teaspoons capers ■ Juice of 1⁄2 lemon or lime ■ About 100ml olive oil Place the broad beans or peas, parsley, garlic, capers, and lemon juice, into a food processor and blend into a rough paste. With the engine running, drizzle in the olive oil, blending until smooth. Pour into a 250ml jar, keep in the fridge, and use within one week.