Marlborough Express

Norfolk Island’s slower pace

Norfolk Island has a slower pace of life. The switch to island time makes back home look positively harried,

- writes Sheriden Rhodes.

Best known as a far-flung South Pacific island once home to a harsh penal colony, Norfolk Island isn’t an obvious wellness destinatio­n, say like Byron Bay or Bali. Smoothies and acai bowls are not de rigueur, nor will you find yoga and Pilates studios on every street corner.

But what I had not counted on was the effect the island’s slower pace of life and arresting natural beauty would have on this wound-up urbanite.

Here, every passing car gives you the ‘‘Norfolk Wave’’ (a one finger salute, to the uninitiate­d).

People stand outside homes and shops and talk to each other. Chickens roam, cows have right of way on roads, everyone grows their own food. It makes life back home look positively harried. Home for five precious days is the historic homestead at Tintoela with views over a lush valley that looks more like Hawaii than Australia.

Tintoela is where Hunky Evans, master builder and direct descendant of the Bounty mutineers, chose to build his dream home with his Canadian sweetheart, Laurie. I sleep in the master bedroom with its wood fire and French doors opening on to a deck. Each night the setting sun bathes the valley in pink and gold.

And every day is like waking up in heaven. After tea on the deck listening to birds calling and watching chickens peck Tintoela’s lawns, we drive to the World Heritage-listed Kingston with its historic buildings, ruins and archaeolog­ical sites dating back to the 1700s.

En route we wind down the car windows to say good morning to cows grazing beside the road.

At Emily Bay, my 78-year-old mum takes a seat beneath the towering Norfolk pines while I dive into the protected lagoon – both of us drinking in the spectacula­r beauty. On the rare occasion someone else is on the beach, we exchange smiles and say: ‘‘How lucky are we!’’

Local Tania Anderson says visitors switch to island time the moment they arrive: breathing in fresh air and taking in the natural beauty of rugged cliffs, blue ocean and majestic namesake Norfolk pines. ‘‘You will always find a peaceful spot to meditate or sit and read a book.’’

Tania explains that Norfolk’s lifestyle strives to be self-sustainabl­e and physically, locals are kept busy gardening, playing sport and helping out others. ‘‘Island life is about growing your own fruit and veges and therefore the food is amazingly fresh. When there is a glut, you share with family and friends, eat in season and don’t waste anything. There are tanks to catch rainwater and we have always got fresh fish to eat.’’

In terms of wellness, the island offers bush walking in national parks and beneath majestic

Moreton Bay fig trees, guided treks to the offshore Phillip Island, yoga classes, a local gym that welcomes visitors, cycling, swimming, snorkellin­g, surfing, tai chi classes and a couple of day spas.

With no pollution, no traffic, no fast food chains and no rush to do anything, Norfolk Island is in fact an ideal destinatio­n to disconnect from busy lives. ‘‘We really do live in paradise and enjoy sharing our island with visitors,’’ Tania says proudly. – Traveller

Sheriden Rhodes was a guest of Norfolk Island Tourism, Air New Zealand and Tintoela.

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 ?? KYLE BOWMAN ?? The island has a slower pace of life and arresting natural beauty.
KYLE BOWMAN The island has a slower pace of life and arresting natural beauty.
 ?? KYLE BOWMAN ?? Every day is like waking up in heaven.
KYLE BOWMAN Every day is like waking up in heaven.
 ??  ?? Not like Bali: Norfolk Island is a low-key beach destinatio­n.
Not like Bali: Norfolk Island is a low-key beach destinatio­n.
 ??  ?? The island offers bush walking in national parks.
The island offers bush walking in national parks.
 ??  ?? Enjoy brunch on the island.
Enjoy brunch on the island.

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