Wild at Heart

Farmed green-lipped mussels are one of Aotearoa’s aquaculture success stories. The sweet, plump flesh complements a huge variety of ingredients and they’re an incredible source of protein.

Perhaps nothing has done more to enhance New Zealand’s ‘green’ reputation amongst foodies than our native green-lipped mussels. The bivalves (Perna canaliculus) are endemic to New Zealand waters and, as a result of careful management and nurturing, have become one of New Zealand’s largest aquaculture enterprises. Named and trademarked to match their distinctive outer shell, these mussels are popular for their texture, flavour and exceptional nutritional value.

What is unusual about cultivated green-lipped mussels is that they start life in the wild and finish life as farmed shellfish. When adult mussels spawn, they release their larvae into the ocean. The juvenile mussels, known as spat, float through the ocean feeding on phytoplankton – plant-like microscopic organisms that live in seawater. Once big enough, the spat cling to seaweed clumps in an effort to find calmer waters and develop into adults. Clumps of spat-covered seaweed wash up on North Island beaches and are harvested and sent to fjords, sounds and harbours up and down the country to be farmed into adults.

WHERE TO FIND THEM

In the wild, mussels will cling to rocky outcrops or perhaps suspend themselves on wharves or jetties, or even larger fields of natural seaweed. Since the 1970s, most of the mussels that are harvested for consumption in New Zealand are cultivated on suspension wires, held tight in cages in nutrient-rich waters in such diverse locations as Stewart Island, Marlborough Sounds, Tasman and Golden bays, Coromandel Peninsula, Waiheke and Northland.

SEASON AND AVAILABILITY

Green-lipped mussels, known in te reo as kuku or kūtai, used to be available only in the summer and autumn months when the tides allowed. Now, thanks to aquaculture, fresh greenlipped mussels are available all year-round.

DESCRIPTION OF SHELLFISH

Although from the same family of mussels (Mytilidae) that are found in almost every coastal country in the world, green-lipped mussels are longer and larger – a mature one can grow to 25cm. The shells are green as a result of the phytoplankton the mussels consume and the colour

deepens as they age. The flesh has two colours, either apricot/orange for females or creamy white for males. The fibrous ‘beards’ are byssus threads, which the mussels use to attach themselves to structures.

WHAT DO THEY EAT?

The fast-growing green-lipped mussels trap and absorb phytoplankton by pumping large volumes of seawater over their gills.

No artificial food sources are needed in New Zealand mussel farms. However, as mussels are filter feeders, the cleanliness of the water is crucial as they can sometimes take up toxins and microplastics.

NUTRITIONAL VALUE

Green-lipped mussels can supply more healthy omega-3 than some varieties of oily fish. The two main types of omega-3 fatty acids, EPA and DHA, can help reduce inflammation and the risk of chronic diseases.

More importantly, 100g of green-lipped mussel flesh can provide a quarter of an adult’s daily protein needs, while also being low in calories. The flesh is high in iodine, with just under half of the recommended daily intake of the essential mineral to be found in two or three mussels. They also have good amounts of calcium, magnesium, potassium and iron.

Powdered green-lipped mussel extracts are used for asthma, arthritis, exercise-induced muscle soreness, attention deficit-hyperactivity disorder (ADHD), and many other conditions, but there is not strong scientific evidence to support any of these uses.

SUSTAINABILITY

Green-lipped mussels are listed among the most sustainable seafoods in the world. They are ‘farmed’ in the wild, rely on wild food sources and can aid in keeping the water environment clean. To protect this billion-dollar industry, the condition of our sea water is important, and eliminating plastic waste, reducing pollution and managing what is excreted into our oceans is crucial.

REDUCE WASTE

There is currently a limit of 50 mussels per person that can be taken from the wild. However, supplies of farmed mussels are plentiful. To reduce waste, freeze cooked mussels, package them in brine pickle or consume quickly. The empty shells can be returned to the sea to break down.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Live, whole green-lipped mussels can be bought from many fish shops and supermarkets; many stores have water-refreshment systems to keep them fresh. High-quality mussels will be bright and shiny, with little coverage of barnacles. Mussel ‘beards’ should look fresh and rigid. Limp beards indicate that the mussel has died, however it won’t be apparent if a mussel is dead until it is tapped (any mussels that do not close when tapped are dead and should be discarded) or cooked (any shells that do not open after cooking should be discarded).

Mussels can also be bought partly cooked and in a half shell. These will be smaller and more tender than whole-shell mussels and are usually sold frozen. Mussels can also be bought smoked, brined or pickled in pottles and vacuum-packed bags. Check ‘best before’ dates on packaged mussels and freezer burn on chilled products before buying. HOW TO STORE

Fresh, live mussels need to be cooked the day they are bought or within 48 hours, if kept chilled in the fridge. Transfer fresh mussels to a tray, rather than leaving them in the bag you bought them in. A tray of mussels can be covered with damp towels to keep fresh. Rinse the mussels under running water, then tug out the beards.

HOW TO COOK

Raw mussels can be opened quite simply with a knife, or by steaming. To reduce the risk of food poisoning, it is recommended to cook fresh mussels before eating them. When serving them in the shell, in dishes such as bouillabaisse, it is important to clean the outer shells by scraping off barnacles and grit and removing the beards.

Mussels can be steamed open in a small amount of boiling water, wine, beer or cider. This should be done quickly to avoid overcooking them – about 3-4 minutes. As soon as the shells pop open, they are cooked and can be removed from the pot. If any mussels don’t open, discard them. Overcooking mussels will cause them to become rubbery.

Half-shell mussels can be grilled and baked with toppings such as shallots, bacon, chopped tomato and cheese, or a herb-infused butter. The flesh can be removed from the shells then deep-fried in batter, turned into fritters or simply eaten with vinegar and salt. Smaller mussels are excellent smoked, brined in a salt solution, pickled in vinegar or dried and sold as a powder.

Compared with the blue mussels found overseas, green-lipped mussels are plumper, softer in texture and milder in flavour. They are incredibly versatile and can be prepared with ingredients such as garlic; bay leaves; soft herbs such as coriander, parsley, thyme and basil; saffron; cream; celery; mayonnaise; carrot; tomatoes; spinach; fennel; curry spices; ginger; chilli; bacon; pasta; kaffir lime leaves; citrus flavours such as lemongrass, lemon and lime; and with liquids such as beer, wine, sake, cider and verjuice. VISIT MiNDFOOD.COM

Love mussels but not sure how to cook them? Why not try this delicious, simple and guaranteed-to-impress curry recipe? mindfood.com/mussels-thai-curry