BORN TO IT
A childhood passion for cooking and a love of seafood has led Teresa Pert to the role of head chef at Wellington’s Ortega Fish Shack.
Teresa Pert was 10 years old when she decided she wanted to be a chef. “I used to loiter around Mum, I just really loved cooking,” she says. “I could cook a roast dinner at the age of 10.”
The head chef of Wellington’s Ortega Fish Shack grew up in the small town of Mahia on the East Coast. For her, fresh seafood was a part of daily life. “My dad was a mechanic and used to trade a lot of work for fish,” she says. “There was a lot of seafood I ate as a kid, such as fresh pāua.”
After training to be a chef in Trentham, Pert built up an impressive career, working in the UK, Italy and alongside acclaimed Kiwi chefs Mark Limacher and Sean Marshall. After spending years with Marshall at Matterhorn and various other restaurant projects, there came a time for Pert to go off on her own.
“It was quite hard, I was not an overly confident person,” she says. “It’s hard to break out of that comfort when you’ve got someone supporting you.” It was Marshall who pushed her
“IT’S ALL ABOUT BEING FRESH AND TASTY.” TERESA PERT
into taking a job at the renowned Pegasus Bay, where she spent the next four-and-a half years.
Pert admits she’s not the typical image of a chef. “I’m super-sensitive, quite shy and not super-confident, so I was probably one of the least-fitting people to fit into the kitchen environment,” she says. “I had to prove that I was tougher than I looked. When the pressure is on, it’s hard, but I thrive under pressure.”
After joining Ortega’s sister restaurant, Frenchie, in mid-2018, Pert moved into her role at Ortega Fish Shack early last year. As you can tell by the name, Ortega focuses on seafood, aiming to source as locally and sustainably as possible.
For Pert, it’s the honesty of the food and the close-knit atmosphere of Ortega that she loves the most. “There’s no stiffness,” she says. “And we try to be really mindful.
“We like to think we’re good at using lesser-favoured fish and finding something amazing.” Respect for the ingredients is crucial. “I don’t believe in trying to put too many things on a plate. Everything’s got to be able to work together. It’s all about being fresh and tasty.”
Pert’s memories of childhood have found their way into the menu. The Shack’s famous creamy French toast fish sandwich, made from the leftover cuts of fish, was inspired by a meal her mum used to make.
Looking back at her childhood and time spent in her mum’s kitchen, Pert says cooking has been a source of fulfillment for her. “I just enjoy starting with something and ending up with something completely different. Knowing you absolutely nailed it, you want everyone to taste it.”
16 Majoribanks Street, Mount Victoria, ortega.co.nz