MiNDFOOD (New Zealand)

BACK TO THE BASICS

Not sure what to do with tangled tresses, bushy brows and stressed skin? It might be time to take your beauty routine back to the basics. We chat with the beauty experts about how to refine your routine to get the results you want.

- WORDS BY NICOLE SAUNDERS

Is it time to take your beauty routine back to basics to get the results you want?

SHAPE OF THE FUTURE

The enforced break from regular brow-grooming appointmen­ts is the perfect opportunit­y to rethink your approach. “Lockdown forced us to discover the ‘natural’ brow that may have been there all the time without the tinkering,” says Emmie Bryett, brow trainer at OFF&ON. If you’re not sure what to do next and feel like you need some expert advice, Bryett’s is straightfo­rward: “Continue to grow your brows for as long as you can without touching them.” Patience is key, Bryett adds, as the hair-growth cycle for brows is the longest of all the hairs on our body. “Book in for a consultati­on with a brow artist when your brows are at their fullest. From there, we can measure and work with your proportion­s to have them looking their best.”

Bryett says the weeks after pushing ‘pause’ on the tweezers is the ideal time to work with a profession­al to achieve the brows of your dreams. “We can work out your best natural shape to help create the ‘scaffoldin­g’ and framework for the brows for you to then continue to maintain,” she says. “Once you have the basis of your brow, maintainin­g comes through colour – either in a salon or at home using product. You can maintain the shape as a result of brushing and a hold product if needed,” she adds.

When you do pick up the tweezers, Bryett has a few at-home pointers. For starters, she says, it’s best to avoid using a magnifying mirror. And rather than attempting to shape and work on the entire brow, focus on the strays only. “Try not to trim at home or attempt to shape; simply maintain, and always remove from the top of the brow.” Choosing a spot with great natural light will help and Bryett suggests stepping back and reassessin­g and brushing your brows as you go. “Tweeze in the direction of the hair, only remove a pinkie finger width between your brows and if in doubt leave it in. Use products to help keep them under control rather than DIY shaping.”

Bryett says that we often underestim­ate the role that brows play in relation to the rest of our face. “Our brows look seemingly small in proportion to the hair on our head, but they are on our face and have a role in balancing the look of our features.

“Even the smallest change can make a huge difference. It is hard to have perspectiv­e and context when doing them yourself as you look at your face every day and don’t necessaril­y see what others see.

“Our job is to create a brow that works for you and with you. There are also a lot of tips and tricks we have up our sleeve other than just taking away hair.”

THE BIG PICTURE

Although some of us may have decided to embrace our natural hair following lockdown, ghd ambassador and stylist Benjamin James, from Ryder Salon, says most of us have wanted to regain as much normality as possible, and that includes a trip to the salon. “People will take more joy in things that make them feel good, and hairdressi­ng will be high on the list of priorities,” he says.

It’s been go, go, go for salons over the past few weeks and James says rather than the big return to low-maintenanc­e looks we may have anticipate­d, he’s noticed quite the opposite. “People who normally have really tailored silhouette­s are loving feeling tamed and controlled again.”

For those who feel inspired to try something bold and very different with their hair, James says the best place to start is discussing it with a stylist. “It’s a bold move, but many of those people have had what feels like a lifetime to think about it. I would suggest proposing it to your stylist and bouncing ideas around.”

Conveying how we want our hair to look can be tricky, so arming yourself with photos of cuts and colours that you like can be a great place to start, but there is a caveat: “Pictures always work well, but make sure you’re thinking about what your hair does and what the hair in the picture does.”

He says it’s important to consider whether the style you like on someone in a picture has thick hair when yours is thin. Is the shape of the face reminiscen­t of yours? Is the hair type similar to yours? A great stylist will be able to talk you through how the look would translate on to your hair and whether or not the style or colour will work for you and your lifestyle. “Tell your stylist what you really like about each picture. Clear communicat­ion is always key,” says James.

Even if you’re not thinking about a dramatic change, James says your stylist is the best place to start when it comes to the health and integrity of your hair. “Listen to your stylist,” he says. “That basin treatment will absolutely help, and heading home with the right product and clear instructio­ns will give your hair everything it needs.”

TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING

If you’ve noticed your skin change over the past few months, you’re not alone. Although some of the changes many of us have noticed can be put down to the arrival of cooler weather, lifestyle plays a key role in the health of our complexion. “A little too much stress, or comfort food, or taking up exercise can result in changes to our skin,” says Linda Sharrem, skincare trainer at Caci. Taryn Johnstone, a trainer at Caci’s academy, agrees: “A

“WE NEED TO REALLY THINK, ‘WHAT DO I NEED? WHAT RESULTS WOULD I LIKE TO SEE?’” LINDA SHARREM

change in routine can cause some stress and inflammati­on, which is then reflected on our skin.”

As a result, Johnstone and Sharrem say many people have started reassessin­g their skincare routines. “We’ve seen a lot of people prioritisi­ng their skin and self care,” says Sharrem.

But there can, of course, be too much of a good thing where skincare is concerned. “There are a lot of amazing products available and we all want to try everything, which leads to over-treating, because we can only get so much on our skin,” says Sharrem.

Fortunatel­y, stripping things back to basics and coming up with a routine that works isn’t too complicate­d. “To find a happy medium, we need to really think, ‘What do I need? What results would I like to see?’ Then narrow it down to a three-step regimen with a mask,” says Sharrem.

She suggests starting with a simple routine to try to quickly develop good habits. “Then resist the temptation to try all the new things. Keep up a consistent regime that really works for your individual and unique skin.”

Turning to profession­als who work with cutting-edge treatments and skincare each day is also a great way to demystify beauty jargon and work out what you really need.

Skincare can be confusing, admits Johnstone. “At Caci we want to combat this. You can contact us anytime for a chat – our team are trained to give a comprehens­ive skin and lifestyle analysis – and put together a skincare plan that is simple and tailored just for you.” If you are considerin­g taking your skincare back to basics, your routine can be as simple as a cleanser, moisturise­r and sunscreen, says Johnstone. “It’s important to remove make-up or impurities to have healthy functionin­g skin. As for the moisturise­r, this is what hydrates and protects your skin from environmen­tal damage.

“If skin is hydrated and protected, we see fewer complicati­ons. And, if our customers do have any complicati­ons, the moisturise­r can create a healthy environmen­t for the skin’s healing. And last, but not least, sunscreen protects skin from UV damage.”

A simple, pared-back skincare routine can be a great place to start when trying to achieve your skincare goals. “But it doesn’t mean we can’t switch things up. You can adapt your skincare routine seasonally and with skin changes,” says Sharrem.

But, she adds, it’s important to remember the golden skincare rule: more is not always more. “One of the biggest mistakes we make with skincare is that we use things that we don’t really need for our skin type, but we buy it because it smells nice or it has a pretty bottle.”

If in doubt, start with skincare superstar ingredient­s that work. Both Sharrem and Johnstone swear by hyaluronic acid, which alleviates dry skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. “It’s one of the most important and versatile products for all skin types,” says Johnstone. “It’s one of the most hydrating ingredient­s for our skin and the most versatile ingredient to address various skin concerns.”

Sharrem also favours antioxidan­ts such as vitamin C to protect skin, vitamin A to maintain strong skin and repair damage, and vitamin E to maintain a strong skin barrier.

Hyaluronic acid is a substance that is found naturally in the body.

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