Jeremy Olds.
There are few fast-tracks to success for fledgling fashion designers, but one promising pathway is to win an international competition.
For example, the International Woolmark Prize, which announced its Australia and New Zealand regional winners last week, offers hefty cash rewards: AU$70,000 ($75,870) for regional winners; AU$200,000 for the international winner.
There are networks to capitalise on: mentors, buyers, garment makers, agents, media. A designer’s work stands on an international platform, to be judged by industry heavyweights.
Madeleine Harman and Jessica Grubisa, the Auckland-based design duo behind the Harman Grubisa label, are preparing to make the most of these resources.
Last Monday, the pair, who founded their company in 2014, were named winners of the womenswear section in the regional finals, gaining entry to the international finals, in January in Florence.
It’s the first time a New Zealand designer has made the international final. (Additionally, the menswear category was won by New Zealand-born, Melbournebased designer Blair Archibald, and he too will head to Florence.)
‘‘Money is one thing, but I think for us it’s being one of the first New Zealanders to have a nomination... ‘‘ said Harman. ‘‘We felt like we’d created history.’’
The brief was to design a range of six looks, 80 per cent of which is made from merino wool, then produce and present one outfit to a panel of fashion editors, designers and industry folk.
‘‘It’s really like a Dragon’s Den situation – people at a table staring at you, 10 minutes to convince these people about your designs,’’ said Harman. ‘‘It’s an intimidating environment.’’
Using a merino wool Harman described as ‘‘the ultimate travel companion – crinkle resistant, stain resistant, odour resistant’’, the designers created a robe-style coat with an invisible zip in the back, so it can be converted into a clutch. ‘‘It sounds really gimmicky but it’s really beautiful,’’ she said.
One of those judging was designer Gabriela Hearst, who last year won the international competition. ‘‘I think Harman Grubisa are very entrepreneurial and very driven,’’ said Hearst.
‘‘They have commercial viability and are creatively there. I think this is a great opportunity for them to expand.’’
Hearst’s prediction is apt. At present, Harman Grubisa has 10 stockists in New Zealand and is due to begin selling with an Australian online retailer shortly, but the designers have their sights on the international market.
‘‘We’ve been really conscious of creating a home for ourselves in New Zealand,’’ Harman says. ‘‘It’s grounded us in the way we develop our product, get feedback, know who we are. We’re at the jump-off point.’’
Now, though, Harman and Grubisa are busy at work, releasing their summer campaign, selling their next collection to buyers, and producing their collection for the Woolmark final.