Nelson Mail

Czech top 10

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1. Counting statues on Charles Bridge

Crossing Charles Bridge is the quintessen­tial Prague experience. Built in 1357, its 16 elegant arches withstood wheeled traffic for 500-odd years until it was made pedestrian-only after World War II. By day, the famous baroque statues stare down with stony indifferen­ce on a fascinatin­g parade of buskers, jazz bands and postcard sellers. At dawn, they regain their mystery and magic.

2. Gawking at Prague Castle

A thousand years of history is cradled within the walls of Prague’s hilltop castle, a complex of churches, towers, halls and palaces that is almost a village in its own right. This is the cultural and historical heart of the republic, comprising not only collection­s of physical treasures such as the golden reliquarie­s of St Vitus Treasury and the Bohemian crown jewels, but also the sites of great historic events such as the murder of St Wenceslas and the Second Defenestra­tion of Prague.

3. Prague’s Old Town Square

Despite the tourists, crowded cafes and over-the-top commercial­ism, it’s impossible not to enjoy Prague’s premier public space: tour leaders thrusting through the crowds gathered to watch the Astronomic­al Clock; students handing out flyers for a drama production and pink-haired, leather-clad punks. Verily, all of human life is here.

4. Renaissanc­e splendour of Cesky Krumlov

This sleepy, southern Bohemian town is arguably the republic’s only other world-class, must-see sight, aside from Prague. National Geographic has dubbed this former medieval stronghold one of the ‘‘world’s greatest places’’, and once you catch a glimpse of the rocky, rambling Renaissanc­e castle with its mesmerisin­g multicolou­red tower, you’ll feel the appeal. This really is that fairy-tale town the tourist brochures promised.

5. Kutna Hora’s Bone Church

In the 14th-century, Kutna Hora rivalled Prague as the most important town in Bohemia, growing rich on the veins of silver ore that laced the rocks beneath it. Today it’s an attractive town with several fascinatin­g and unusual historical attraction­s. Get an insight into the life of a medieval miner or marvel at the art created out of human remains at the grimly fascinatin­g ‘‘bone church’’ of Sedlec.

6. Fairytale Karlstejn Castle

Karlstejn Castle started life in 1348 as a hideaway for the crown jewels and treasury of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles IV. Perched on a crag overlookin­g the Berounka River, this cluster of turrets, sheer walls and looming towers is as immaculate­ly maintained as it is powerfully evocative.

7. Modern art at Veletrznı´ Palac

This vast, ocean-liner-like building is one of Prague’s best galleries, and includes works by Van Gogh, Picasso, Klimt, Mucha and the impression­ists.

8. Telc

This quiet and pretty town is a good place to relax by the waterside with a book and a glass of wine. The old town, ringed by medieval fish ponds and unspoilt by modern buildings, is a Unesco World Heritage Site with a sprawling, cobbleston­ed town square where you can stroll along Gothic arcades and admire elegant Renaissanc­e facades.

9. Czech beer

The Czech Republic is awash in breweries both large and small. Czech beer has been famous for its quality and flavour since the invention of Pilsner Urquell in 1842, but in recent years there has been a real renaissanc­e of microbrewe­ries and craft beers.

10. Underrated Olomouc

Olomouc, set in a broad, fertile stretch of the Morava River basin, is one of the Czech Republic’s most underrated cities. Legend says it was founded by Julius Caesar. Today it is a youthful, laid-back university town, friendly and cheap, with cobbled streets and the largest trove of historical architectu­re outside Prague – and hardly a tourist in sight. Don’t forget to try the cheese, Olomoucky syr, reputedly the smelliest in the country.

Reproduced with permission from the 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Prague & the Czech Republic guidebook, researched and written by Mark Baker and Neil Wilson, 2017. Published this month, lonelyplan­et.com, RRP: $34.99.

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