Robin Givhan.
They showed off the work of the atelier. They underscored French savoir-faire.
Even Chanel, which has a tradition of extravagant, overwhelming sets, still managed to highlight the craftsmanship that goes into its ready-to-wear.
Designer Karl Lagerfeld presented his collection at the Grand Palais amidst an indoor forest constructed for the occasion. His models tramped through the forest in tweed suits with metallic gold, over-the-knee boots and black-and-gold oxfords. There were cropped metallic trousers and an array of black dresses in chiffon and lace.
But even in the outsize manner in which Chanel presents its collections, the clothes are somehow, miraculously, never lost. The backdrop emphasises some essential aspect of them - in this case, the earthy colours, the textures and a reality-based grounding of the work.
There was nothing conceptual: These were clothes to wear, and the assembled clients who were dressed in their own head-to-toe Chanel could feel free to shop.
There was a lot of wandering through nature and walking in the woods at the shows this season. At Hermes, designer Nadege VanheeCybulski presented her show in a misty garden at twilight. As guests settled in on benches and warmed themselves with Hermes blankets, production assistants raked the red gravel runway until the rocks were just so.
The models emerged through the mist, and the clothes’ depth of craftsmanship was immediately clear. One could practically feel the weight of the cashmere jackets that hung from shoulder straps, and the buttery softness of the colourful suede boots.
Whatever the brand, no matter its size, the desire, almost always, was to find a way to bring people as close to the clothes as possible - to befriend the guests. But not seduce them.
At Givenchy, designer Clare Waight Keller presented her second ready-to-wear collection for the house and it was a dynamic show inspired by Berlin and Brutalist architecture that featured strong-shouldered coats, a forest-green leather skirt and vest, plenty of animal prints and a thick undertone of female power. It was a collection that gave one a feeling of danger and aggression, as if the gremlin on your shoulder was whispering brisk exhortations to lean in and win. Stop being so nice. Stop apologising.
Mostly, this hasn’t been a season of rip-roaring, knock-out collections. The ones that have stood out have done so with a calm focus rather than a frenzied drumbeat.And this season, there was little taunting and flaunting on the runway. Instead, there were a host of beautiful, but discreet, gowns. Strong-shouldered blazers. Athletic-inspired sportswear. And nubby tweeds.
Sex - overt, bawdy, distracting - has mostly gone missing. Or just into hiding. - The Washington Post