European inspiration gives a new twist to marinated fish.
Inspiring European influences have given a new twist to recipes for marinated fish.
Many people are familiar with Pacific Island-style marinated fish, which involves leaving the fish to marinate for up to 12 hours. At the end of the process, the fish has the appearance of being cooked, as acid in the lemon juice firms up the flesh and makes it opaque. The marinade is then discarded before spices, finely chopped vegetables and often thick coconut cream are added. It’s essential to use fresh fish.
As distant cuisines influence our food scene, we’re seeing new ways of preparing raw fish that stretch beyond the more familiar Pacific ika, sashimi, crudo and carpaccio, so Filipino, Hawaiian and Peruvian styles are now making an appearance on our menus (see overleaf).
On a recent trip to Europe, there were only two occasions during a fortnight’s travelling in Sweden, Russia and France when we veered away from fish and ate meat. The array of seafood was impressive. We loved the Scandinavian herrings, pristine salmon, delicate slabs of fresh fish and Finnish and Russian caviar. Paris and Bordeaux restaurants offered a wonderfully diverse choice, and as with restaurants worldwide, they proudly proclaimed the fish on their menu as having been wild-caught or sustainably caught. We always found one or two “raw” seafood dishes offered as entrées or mains. Unless you are visiting a seaport, pre-trip research is vital if you want to find quality seafood restaurants.
These recipes were inspired by dishes we enjoyed, and any fresh fish can be used, including kahawai, mullet, gurnard, kingfish and even sprats.
As distant cuisines influence us, we’re seeing new ways of preparing raw fish beyond the more familiar.
GURNARD CEVICHE WITH MELON AND SEAWEED
500g very fresh gurnard fillets, boned 3 limes
1 tsp sea-salt flakes
4 tbsp dried green sea-lettuce seaweed 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 small rock melon
3 tbsp toasted pine nuts
2 tsp pink peppercorns
Cut the fish into bite-sized pieces and place in a bowl. Lightly grate 2 limes and add their zest and juice to the fish with the salt. Stir well, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Meanwhile, prepare the other ingredients.
Rehydrate the seaweed by placing in a bowl of cold water for about 10 minutes until it is soft. Drain, discarding the water, then roughly chop the seaweed, reserving a few sprigs for a garnish.
To make the dressing, combine the juice of the remaining lime, the chopped seaweed, mustard and oil in a bowl, then stir well. Add a little extra salt to taste.
Cut the melon in half, discarding the seeds and rind, and chop into pieces that are a little smaller than the fish pieces. Add the melon and pine nuts to the dressing.
Finally, mix in the fish and its juices, then taste for seasoning, adding extra salt and a pinch of caster sugar if you wish. Leave at room temperature for about 15 minutes. Cut very thin ribbons from the remaining melon half.
Serve the ceviche at once in small bowls, decorated with ribbons of melon, pink peppercorns and seaweed sprigs.
Serves 4-6.
Wine match: a light chardonnay.
KAHAWAI CEVICHE WITH RADISHES, BEETROOT AND AVOCADO
500g very fresh kahawai (or kingfish), skinned and boned
1 shallot, finely chopped
5cm piece of peeled fresh ginger, finely grated
2 tsp salt
2 large lemons
4 spring radishes
1 small beetroot, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks 2 tbsp chopped dill
4 tbsp citrus olive oil
1 avocado, cut into cubes
Cut the fish into bite-sized pieces and place in a glass or stainless-steel bowl. Add the shallot, ginger, salt and finely grated zest and juice of the lemons. Toss well, then cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate
for at least an hour or overnight.
Meanwhile, wash the radishes, and slice as thinly as possible – a mandolin is perfect for this. Place in iced water until needed.
Prepare the beetroot matchsticks, but keep them separate, otherwise the juices will turn everything bright pink.
When ready to serve, toss the radishes, dill and oil into the marinated fish, retaining all the juices. Carefully stir together and taste for seasoning. It may need more lemon or salt.
Add the avocado chunks, then toss in the beetroot matchsticks. Serve in bowls.
You may like to accompany this ceviche with thin toast or corn chips.
Serves 4-6.
Wine match: chardonnay.