Fresh figs are ideal in cakes, puddings and jams – but also as an ingredient in salads and starters.
Fresh figs are ideal in cakes, puddings and jams – but also as an ingredient in salads and starters.
The pesky little birds swooping in and out of the fig tree in my mother’s garden usually demolish a ripe fruit within an hour or so. They peck away at the ripest ones, leaving the others for another day. Figs form in clumps along the branches and are at their best when the fragile skin starts to split while they’re still on the tree. Because the fruit in each clump ripen one at a time, they need to be gathered daily.
If you have to buy fresh figs, choose carefully, because supermarket supplies are usually picked before the figs are fully ripe, which means they are never quite as sweet.
Ripe figs start to ferment, and within a day or two will become soft and spongy. In softer figs, the flesh becomes a little jelly-like, but they will still be good in cakes, puddings and jams or as stewed fruit to serve with yogurt or ice cream. (See recipe on page 46.)
One of my favourite recipes is for a fig starter. Remove the stalk and make a crosswise cut in the top that extends about halfway down the fig. Stuff cream cheese or crumbly feta into the centre, then wrap prosciutto or thinly sliced bacon around it. Drizzle over a little honey or maple syrup, then scatter chopped thyme or black pepper over the top. Grill the figs for 4-5 minutes so they are just warmed through and the bacon is cooked. Serve immediately.
This dessert recipe is an old favourite, with a rich custard-like batter surrounding the fruit.
Supermarket supplies are usually picked before the figs are fully ripe, which means they are never quite as sweet.
FIG AND HONEY CLAFOUTIS
10-12 fresh ripe figs 3 large eggs
4 tbsp flour
3 tbsp honey
300ml whole milk 100ml cream
Preheat the oven to 160°C. Generously butter a shallow, 22cm-diameter ovenproof baking dish. Wash and dry the figs, then cut them in half lengthwise. Place cut-side up in the dish.
Beat the eggs, flour and honey in a bowl until smooth but not too bubbly. Stir in the milk and cream and combine well, keeping a smooth consistency.
Pour enough batter around the figs so that it almost covers but doesn’t swamp them.
Place the dish in the oven and cook for about 45 minutes or until the custard is set and the clafoutis is golden and a little puffed up.
Remove from the oven, allow to cool a little, then serve with whipped cream or plain unsweetened yogurt.
Serves 4-6.
Wine match: late-harvest riesling.
WARM SALAD WITH DUCK BREAST AND FIGS
2 fresh duck breasts salt
½ tsp ground cumin
3 small beetroot
200 fresh green beans
6 fresh ripe figs
1 head radicchio (or red lettuce)
2 slices sourdough bread, crusts removed
and cut into 2cm cubes handful of fresh mint
DRESSING
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp honey
2 tbsp lemon juice
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp salt freshly ground black pepper
Leaving the skin on the duck, trim off excess fat. Any remaining fat will melt during cooking. Using a very sharp knife, score the skin in a diamond pattern. Rub the duck with ½ teaspoon of salt and the ground cumin, then set aside.
Prepare the vegetables by peeling the beetroot thinly with a potato peeler. Cut into 3cm dice. Place in a steamer over boiling water and cook until tender – 15 to 20 minutes.
Top and tail the beans, then cut into 5-6cm lengths. Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil, then simmer the beans for 3 minutes before draining and running under ice-cold water to help retain the colour.
Cut the figs in halves or quarters, depending on their size.
Separate the radicchio or lettuce leaves and wash well. Spin-dry using a salad spinner or dry between 2 clean tea towels.
Pick the leaves off the mint stalks. Place the duck breasts skin-side down in a cold, heavy frying pan. Put the pan on the element, then turn on the heat. Once the pan is hot, reduce the temperature to medium and cook for 8-10 minutes or until the skin is crisp and golden.
Flip the breasts and cook the other side for about 3 minutes so that the meat remains juicy and pink.
Remove the duck from the pan, then leave to rest. Fry the sourdough
cubes in the hot fat until golden and crunchy. Drain on kitchen paper, then sprinkle with a little salt.
Make the dressing by shaking the mustard, honey, lemon juice, oil, salt and pepper together in a small screw-top jar.
To assemble the salad, place the leaves on a large platter. Spread the beetroot, beans and figs evenly over the leaves. Drizzle the dressing over the top.
To finish, slice each breast into 7-8 slices, then place on top of the vegetables with the sourdough cubes and mint. Drizzle with extra fig balsamic crème if you have any. Serve at once. Serves 4-6.
Wine match: a fruity rosé.