New Zealand Listener

Hip, hip syrah

Easy-drinking Hawke’s Bay syrahs are making their presence felt.

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If you are a pinot noir lover, check out the swelling stream of syrahs from Hawke’s Bay. This classic Rhône Valley variety has long been popular here under its Australian name – shiraz. Designed to be enjoyed young, the lower-priced of these Hawke’s Bay syrahs are typically floral, vibrantly fruity and smooth, with the easy-drinking nature of most pinot noirs.

Who could say no to Te Mata’s descriptio­n of its $20 syrah, blended with a splash of viognier (2%) and matured briefly in French oak barrels? “A glass of Estate Vineyards Syrah is like opening a spice-box. It overflows with cherry, blackberry, boysenberr­y, thyme, pepper and the irresistib­le scents of black doris plums and vanilla.”

Church Road Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2015

This bargain-priced red was estategrow­n in the Bridge Pa Triangle (mostly) and matured in French and Hungarian oak vessels. Purpleflus­hed, with a floral, slightly peppery bouquet, it is softly mouthfilli­ng

(13% alc/vol), with generous plum/ spice flavours, hints of liquorice, dark chocolate and nuts, gentle tannins and considerab­le complexity. $20

Clearview Cape Kidnappers Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2016

Delicious young, this full-coloured red was grown at Te Awanga and matured in French oak casks for eight months. The bouquet is floral, plummy and spicy; the palate mouthfilli­ng (13% alc/vol), vibrantly fruity and supple, with ripe plum, spice and black pepper flavours, finely integrated oak, savoury notes adding complexity, and a finely textured, harmonious finish. $27

Ash Ridge Estate Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2016

Estate-grown in the Bridge Pa Triangle, this is the fast-emerging producer’s top-selling wine. Matured in French and American oak barrels (mostly seasoned), it is a deep-ruby, medium-bodied red (12% alc/vol), with vibrant, spicy, slightly earthy flavours, showing some complexity, and velvety tannins. $20

Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2016

This fresh, medium to full-bodied red (12.5% alc/vol) was “made to be enjoyed while young” – that’s the wine, not the drinker. Grown in the Gimblett Gravels and Bridge Pa Triangle, it was blended with viognier (5%) and matured for seven months in tanks and French oak. Full-coloured, it is finely textured, with good depth of flavour, plummy, spicy and smooth. $22

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