New Zealand Listener

Full-flavoured, bargain-priced wines are a hallmark of family-owned business Mount Riley.

Full-flavoured, bargain-priced wines are a hallmark of this family-owned business.

- by Michael Cooper

Is there a better-value range of Marlboroug­h wines than Mount Riley? Named after the predominan­t peak in the craggy Richmond Range, on the north side of the Wairau Valley, this family-owned winery produces hugely drinkable wines that are bargain-priced.

Founded in 1994, Mount Riley is controlled by Aucklander­s John and Linda Buchanan and their daughter, Blenheim-based Amy Murphy. John, whose family has deep roots in Marlboroug­h, once worked as an accountant for a London wine importer and was later chief financial officer for Corbans. Murphy, a lawyer, is Mount Riley’s general manager and her husband, Matt, is the winemaker, with a talent for crafting fragrant, fresh, full-flavoured wines that are delicious young.

The winery and cellar door at Riverlands – on the south side of Blenheim – processes fruit from contract growers and Mount Riley’s own five sites in the Wairau Valley, including its top-performing 17 Valley vineyard. The wine is distribute­d widely overseas, from Sainsbury’s supermarke­ts in the UK to Raffles Hotel in Singapore.

Over a decade ago, Buchanan declared: “We’ve got to deliver wine that’s better than the price.” Mount Riley produces the goods.

Mount Riley 17 Valley Marlboroug­h Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Hand-picked and fermented and matured in French oak barrels, this is a top example of complex, ageworthy Marlboroug­h sauvignon blanc. Drinking superbly now, it is weighty (13.5% alc/vol), with concentrat­ed, ripe tropical-fruit flavours to the fore, a subtle seasoning of nutty oak and a harmonious, lasting finish. $20-25

Mount Riley Marlboroug­h Merlot/Malbec 2016

Who says Marlboroug­h is too cool to make good merlot-based reds?

This ageworthy, finely-textured red is substantia­l (13% alc/vol), with a satisfying depth of ripe, berryish, slightly nutty flavours, skilfully balanced for early drinking. $15-18

Mount Riley Marlboroug­h Pinot Gris 2017

Attractive­ly scented, this is an off-dry style, mouthfilli­ng (13% alc/vol), with pear, lychee and spice flavours, showing excellent varietal character, delicacy and vibrancy. $15-18

Mount Riley Marlboroug­h Pinot Noir 2016

Invitingly fragrant, this barrel-aged red is ruby-hued, full-bodied (13% alc/vol) and smooth, with fresh, ripe, plummy, slightly spicy flavours, revealing greater depth than you’d expect at this modest price. $17

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