Wine

Nelson and Canterbury may produce less than Marlborough, but the quality is right up there.

Nelson and Canterbury may produce less than Marlborough, but the quality is right up there.

Lying to the northwest and south of Marlborough, the less wine-saturated regions of Nelson and Canterbury are far smaller in terms of their vinous output, but they certainly hold their own in terms of quality.

The two regions have just 7% of the national vineyard but 15% of the wineries. In both regions, sauvignon blanc is the major white-wine variety and pinot noir heads the reds.

Pinot gris is also extensively planted in both, but whereas Nelson has a strong reputation for chardonnay, in Canterbury, riesling shines.

CHARDONNAY Blackenbrook Nelson Chardonnay 2016

This sturdy wine was matured in American and French oak casks. Full-bodied (14% alc/ vol), it has generous, vibrant, peachy, slightly toasty flavours, showing considerable complexity, and a well-rounded

finish. Delicious now. $25

Moutere Hills Sarau Reserve Chardonnay 2015

This powerful, fragrant wine was grown in Nelson and barrel-fermented. Full-bodied (13.5% alc/vol) and fresh, it has vibrant, citrusy, peachy flavours, showing excellent concentration and complexity, balanced acidity, and a lasting finish. $55

Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay 2016

Certified organic, this multifaceted wine was handled in French oak barriques. Richly fragrant, it is mouthfilling (13.5% alc/vol), with ripe, peachy, slightly toasty flavours, threaded with appetising acidity, and lovely vibrancy, complexity and depth. $74

Richmond Plains Nelson Chardonnay 2015

Lemon-scented, this fresh, elegant wine was handled in barrels and tanks. Fullbodied (13.5% alc/vol), it has vibrant, citrusy, slightly buttery flavours, a subtle seasoning of oak, and good length. Certified organic. $25

ALBARIÑO Aronui Single Vineyard Nelson Albariño 2015

This impressive wine was grown in Upper Moutere. Aromatic and full-bodied (13.5% alc/vol), it is an intensely varietal wine, with strong peach, grapefruit and spice flavours, dryish, crisp, finely balanced and long. $25

PINOT GRIS Mount Brown Estates North Canterbury Pinot Gris 2017

Priced sharply, this mouthfilling (13.5% alc/vol) wine is fresh and smooth, with a gentle splash of sweetness and very good depth of ripe, peachy, spicy flavour. A slightly gewürz-like wine, it is already drinking well. $17

Renato Nelson Pinot Gris 2017 Estate-grown on the coast, this wine offers good value. Fragrant and full-bodied (13% alc/vol), it has ripe, peachy, gently spicy flavours, a sliver of sweetness and a slightly oily richness. $18

Terrace Edge Waipara Pinot Gris 2016

Delicious now, this sturdy, Alsace-style wine was fermented in French oak barrels and tanks. Mouthfilling (13.5% alc/vol) and soft, it has deep stone-fruit and spice flavours, gentle sweetness, and a rich, rounded finish. $25

Tiki Estate Waipara Pinot Gris 2016

Attractively scented, this is a weighty (13.5% alc/vol) wine with generous, peachy, vaguely honeyed flavours, gentle acidity and an off-dry, smooth finish. Fine value. $20

Waipara Hills Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2017

Bargain-priced, this is an

off-dry style, fragrant, fullbodied (13.5% alc/ vol) and finely textured. Vibrantly fruity, it has generous peach and pear-like flavours, hints of spices and ginger, and a well-rounded finish. $22

SAUVIGNON BLANC Greystone Sauvignon Blanc Barrel Fermented 2017

This North Canterbury wine was fermented in old French oak casks. It is mouthfilling (13.5% alc/vol), with strong, ripe, tightly structured, vaguely honeyed flavours, showing excellent complexity. $25

Kaimira Estate Brightwater Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Certified organic, this estate-grown Nelson wine is full-bodied (13.5% alc/vol), with crisp, ripe pineapple and lime flavours, generous and still youthful, and a dry, finely balanced finish. $21

Mount Beautiful North Canterbury Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Estate-grown at Cheviot, north of Waipara, this is a weighty wine (14% alc/vol), with excellent vigour and concentration of ripe passionfruit/lime flavours, finely balanced, dry, crisp and long. Fine value. $24

Sherwood Estate Stratum Waipara Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Priced right, this fresh, tangy, medium-bodied wine (12% alc/vol) is full of vigour. It offers good depth of tropical fruit and herbaceous flavours, with a crisp, finely balanced finish. $18

The Boneline Riverbone Waipara Sauvignon Blanc 2014

Maturing gracefully, this distinctive wine was fermented in French oak casks. Full-bodied (13% alc/vol), it is tightly structured, with vibrant, ripe, tropical fruit flavours, showing good complexity, a minerally streak and a long, dry finish. $30

RIESLING Brightwater Vineyards Nelson Riesling 2017

Grown on the Waimea Plains, this is a youthful, off-dry style. Medium-bodied (11.5% alc/vol), it has strong, lively, lemony flavours, hints of limes and apricots, good acid spine and a long finish. $22

Georges Road Block Three Waipara Riesling 2014

Still unfolding, this is an invitingly fragrant wine, medium-bodied (12% alc/vol), with good intensity of lemony, slightly appley flavours, hints of honey and toast, and a slightly sweet, appetisingly crisp finish. $25

SWEET WHITE Seifried Winemakers Collection Sweet Agnes Nelson Riesling 2017

This is Seifried’s most celebrated wine. Still very youthful, it is light-bodied (9.5% alc/vol), with rich, peachy, honeyed flavours, abundant sweetness and crisp, steely acidity. $25 (375ml)

ROSÉ Bellbird Spring Pinot Noir Rosé 2017

This is a “serious” flavourpacked rosé from Waipara, fermented in barrels and made in a dry style. Pale pink/ slight orange, it is mediumbodied (12% alc/vol), with fresh, peachy, spicy flavours, showing unusual depth and complexity. $27

MERLOT Ataahua Waipara Merlot 2014

Delicious now, this North Canterbury red was matured in French oak casks. Fragrant and full-coloured, it is mouthfilling (14% alc/vol), with velvety tannins and a strong surge of fresh plum/blackcurrant flavours. $30

PINOTAGE Muddy Water Waipara Pinotage 2016

Tasting like a cross between pinot noir and syrah, this is a powerful red (15% alc/vol) but not heavy. Rich, savoury and soft, it has dense, youthful berry, spice and slight liquorice flavours, gentle tannins and obvious potential. $65

PINOT NOIR Black Estate Damsteep Pinot Noir 2016

This classy Waipara red was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Deeply coloured and mouthfilling (13% alc/vol), it is very savoury, ripe and concentrated, with finely balanced tannins and lovely plum, berry, spice and nut flavours. $45

Greenhough Hope Vineyard Nelson Pinot Noir 2015

This is one of Nelson’s greatest reds. Certified organic, it is deep ruby, with a fragrant, complex bouquet. A powerful (14% alc/vol) but elegant, sweet-fruited wine, it has deep, youthful plum, spice and nut flavours; firm, savoury and lingering. $46

Bronte Nelson Pinot Noir 2015

Made for early enjoyment, this is a deeply coloured, fragrant, full-bodied red

(14% alc/vol). It has strong, fresh plum, cherry and spice flavours, some savoury complexity and a seductively smooth finish. (From Rimu Grove.) $24

Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir 2013

From its oldest vines at Waipara, Pegasus Bay’s top red is deeply coloured, ripely scented and mouthfilling (13% alc/vol), with lovely depth of plummy, spicy flavours, velvety tannins, and notable complexity and harmony. $95