New Zealand Listener

An exceptiona­l growing season in Hawke’s Bay has winemakers salivating.

An exceptiona­l growing season in Hawke’s Bay has winemakers salivating.

- By Michael Cooper

The 2019 harvest is expected to yield wines that are worth celebratin­g, especially those from Hawke’s Bay. After one of the country’s hottest, driest summers, autumn was wet in Marlboroug­h, but the dryness persisted in Hawke’s Bay, which reported an exceptiona­l vintage.

Winemaker Gordon Russell, who joined Esk Valley 30 years ago, believes 2019 is “going to be a legend. All varieties are superb.” Julian Grounds, winemaker at Craggy Range, even praised the 2019 vintage as “sublime”. The region’s top wines from 2019 – made mostly from chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah – are yet to be unveiled, but here are some 2019 pinot gris and rosés to get us started.

Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2019

Showing strong personalit­y, this invitingly scented wine was grown inland, at Maraekākah­o, and partly barrel-fermented. Full-bodied (13.5% alc/vol), it has strong, vibrant, pear-like flavours, hints of lychees and spices, a distinct touch of complexity, balanced acidity and a dryish, lingering finish. Already delicious, it is great value at $20.

Falconhead Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2019

Enjoyable young, this wine was mostly handled in tanks, but 25% was barrel-fermented. Pale pink, it is mouthfilli­ng (13%), with generous peach, watermelon and spice flavours. Fresh and dryish, it is good value at $17.

Mills Reef Reserve Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2019

Made from merlot, this bright-pink wine is lively, with good body (13% alc/vol) and strong, fresh-watermelon and spice flavours. A dry and lingering rosé. $25

Oyster Bay Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2019

Modelled on dry Italian pinot grigio rather than the richer, sweeter pinot gris of Alsace, this is a fragrant, medium to full-bodied (12.5% alc/ vol) wine with pear-like aromas, fresh stonefruit, pear and spice flavours and a smooth finish. $20

Sileni Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Franc Rosé 2019

Pale pink, fresh and lively, this wine is unfolding well, with strong peach, strawberry and spice flavours, a hint of apricot, gentle tannins and a finely balanced, basically dry finish. (13% alc/vol). $20

Stables Ngatarawa Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2019

From Mission Estate, this sharply priced wine is enjoyable young. Mouthfilli­ng (13.5% alc/vol), it is fresh and slightly creamy, with dryish, peachy, strongly spicy flavours and satisfying depth. $13

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