New Zealand Surfing - - Beatings -

Af­ter los­ing out un­cer­e­mo­ni­ously dur­ing his re­turn to com­pe­ti­tion, due to rather du­bi­ous judg­ing de­ci­sions on his home turf, our best free surfer de­cided he’d had enough of com­pe­ti­tion, packed his bags and headed east to do what he does best, free-surf. Ex­pect­ing six foot pump­ing bar­rels upon pulling up to a se­cret beach, Luke was dished up two foot drib­ble, com­bined with side­ways rain and a bone chill­ing wind, not what he had signed up for. That af­ter­noon he hit this shel­tered Coro­man­del cove, the wave of the day came his way and he got pitched. It’s safe to say Luke was hav­ing a jamma! He takes up the story. “That fall off was bla­tant mis­use of the best wave that came through that surf. We were surf­ing Ha­hei beach on a stormy lit­tle day, it was pretty much just a shorey but kinda fun. This wave came through and I pad­dled into it a bit ca­su­ally, got stuck in the lip and jumped off. Those dis­mounts can be fun, when you get stuck in the lip and jump to the bot­tom, apart from when you land on your side and get winded, that’s not so much fun. I ended up get­ting sucked back over the falls and re­ceived a full body ex­fo­li­a­tion in the sand.”

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from New Zealand

© PressReader. All rights reserved.