A craicing EXPERIENCE
FABULOUS FOODIE ANNABELLE WHITE SAMPLES THE DELIGHTS OF IRELAND
There is a captivating rawness about the west coast of Southern Ireland. The twists and turns of the 2500km drive along the Wild Atlantic Way that takes you right to the edge of the sea – from the North to the South – gives you pristine, pounding water, rolling, green countryside and a scattering of white cottages.
The fresh smell of a briny sea and peat defines the clean air. Small villages with busy pubs and little shops dot the landscape, and you have never felt better. It’s easy driving in a small car with sat nav, and rest stops are enhanced by the warmth and the craic (laughter) from the locals.
Without a doubt, and being completely honest, Ireland is my favourite place to visit. Although you don’t go to Ireland for sunny beach resorts or shopping in a bazaar, the locals will make you laugh, and delight you with their warmth and care.
Everyone and anyone is welcome – from the solo traveller to a large group. It’s genuine affection and if you join in the music in the pubs or tell a funny story, you will feel like you have come home. You always feel the warmth.
My advice is to fly into Dublin and book a night at Number
31. It’s a beautiful boutique property and the host Noel Comer is funny, informative and the breakfast is extraordinary.
The next day, travel by the excellent train to Westport and pick up your rental car. Leave some time to walk around – it has been voted one of the prettiest villages in Ireland.
The shops are a delight, especially the thrift stores where local ladies showcase their craftwork – from paintings to quilts made with local woollen mill offcuts, you can even pick up a great Irish hat.
Head to Newport and stop at the café next door to Kelly’s Butchers. Ask for Sean, the very gregarious butcher, who makes the best sausage, black and white pudding, and bacon, and loves talking meat. You will feel very welcome.
A few minutes down the road, is the Mulranny Park Hotel, where you could stay a few days. The general manager Dermot Madigan is an outstanding operator and his staff reflect his management. The place is relaxed yet very efficient.
From here, you can explore the Gourmet Greenway, where you drive or ride a hotel bike to check out the local produce or brewers – the hotel will set this up for you.
Take time to drive out to
Achill Island, which is linked to the mainland by a bridge. It’s so beautiful in a raw, isolated way that it’s hard not to get emotional. Book ahead at the hotel and ask for the John Lennon Suite. It’s a picturesque room overlooking Clew Bay,
with sheep wandering below, and you can enjoy what John and Yoko Ono experienced so many years ago.
Drive the car back to the Dublin airport and book a few nights at MacNean House and Restaurant in Blacklion, County Cavan, which is owned by top TV chef Neven Maguire. Sensational food, outstanding service and delightful rooms – the dinner will exceed your expectations. I book in every year, 12 months in advance.
Neven’s cooking classes are fantastic, hands on, informative fun and will restore your faith in hospitality! Or perhaps it’s the porridge served with Irish Mist liqueur for breakfast? Either way, it’s joyful and hard to leave.