QUEBEC sampler
ALEXIA SANTAMARIA GETS A TASTE OF FRANCE IN CANADA
There’s definitely a few worried looks as our local guide steps onto the coach in Quebec saying, “Bonjour, ca va? Alors aujourd ‘hui on va fair toute la tour en Francais”, meaning “Hello, how are you? Today we will do the whole tour in French.” I catch her wink so know the effervescent Suzanne’s just pulling our legs. However, it’s a great introduction to the fact that this city is very French.
I’ve just come from Toronto and Ottawa, and have found things getting more French as I head east, but in Quebec City, it’s sometimes hard to believe I’m even in Canada as I tread Europeanstyle cobblestones in the shadow of the Chateau Frontenac. The style of food reinforces this French feeling and I can’t wait to explore.
Suzanne gives the tour group a great orientation of the city from the port to the chateau, including the village square and streets filled with funky boutiques and stores.
I’m fascinated by the fairytale feel of this walled town and, when the tour ends at midday, skip off to follow up on some of Suzanne’s pointers for local nosh. First up is Paillard, the large central patisserie favoured by locals and tourists alike – and after tasting their pear and maple pastries, can see why. Then, it’s off to Chez Ashton, a fastfood joint where the locals go to get their poutine fix. It’s an unusual combination of French fries, gravy and cheese curd but it totally works and can tick “Eat Canada’s national dish” off my list.
I meander through the labyrinthine streets, poking round shops and particularly enjoy stopping at Delices D’Erable et Cie, where I taste maple vinegar pearls, maple liqueur, maple mustard and much more. Our server takes a shine to me and offers a free sample of snow taffy using crushed ice. This is something Canadians make in winter where they pour maple syrup on fresh snow, letting it form a chewy sweet.
I’ve heard there’s a fine food shop worth seeking out. JA Moisan Epicerie is a treasure trove of local specialities and imported gourmet goods; it’s like stepping back in time or into the most delicious movie set ever. The rillettes, pates, cheese, bread and chocolate are delicious, and the place looks like it hasn’t been changed a lot since it was built in 1871. It’s truly charming.
It’s time for an aperitif and tour manager Jen has suggested a bistro called Beclub, so I head there for some local charcuterie and the best lychee cocktail
I’ve ever had. It’s all topped off perfectly by gorgeous bartender Phil with his sultry French Canadian accent. Mon dieu!
Although I could easily stay there all night, I really want a traditional experience, so head to Le Buffet de l’Antiquaire. It’s
the real deal for sure and I greedily devour Quebecois pea soup, a pork stew and the local pie. It’s like lumberjack nosh with a strong French influence. It isn’t flash but it’s good and I was in raptures over dessert – sugar pie, a speciality of the region. A mix of flour, sugar, butter, cream and brown sugar, it may now be one of my favourite desserts.
It’s finally time to head back, but not before a drink at the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac. This castle-like hotel is the centrepiece of the city and the bar is gorgeousness personified. As I look out over the lights,
I’m still struggling to believe that I’m not in Europe – but I know wherever I am, I’ll want to come back soon.