AT SEAL LEVEL
KYLIE HALL HAS A KAI-AKING KAIKOURA ADVENTURE
Sun-basking fur seals dot the rocks as we paddle into the deep dark blue sea on a sunny Kaikoura day.
“Let’s keep heading out,” says our guide Cowan.
“Hold on,” I wonder aloud. “Aren’t we in the ocean already?”
“You sure are – right deep in the Pacific. The swell is only about 2m today, excellent conditions for exploring.” He grins. I gulp.
We’re out on a seal kayaking tour with Kaikoura Kayaks. After hitting the water at 8.30am, it’s chilly but gorgeous, with vistas to die for. Reflections of the Kaikoura Ranges glisten on the glassy water and I take a moment to breathe in all the beauty.
There’s more in store for us than just seals. A pod of dusky dolphins have come out to play. To our delight, they frolic among our kayaks, so close you can see their gleaming bodies below the water line. From October to May, “duskies” nudge in close to the Kaikoura Peninsula, adding to the area’s reputation as one of the best wildlife regions in the world. Click, click, go the cameras. Quick and nimble, they duck and dive, returning to us again and again.
Finally, hunger has got the better of a snoozing seal. He splashes into the water and heads down to the sea floor for breakfast. Shortly afterwards, he bounces up through the brilliant blue water and surfaces with an octopus in his jaws. He slaps it about before gutsing it down. Poor octopus, lucky seal. I lose count of how many times he dives and then devours his evidently delicious prey.
Until 1875, New Zealand fur seals (kekeno) were hunted almost to the brink of extinction. Now, thankfully, their numbers are recovering.
Their camouflage capability is impressive – their dark grey-brown colouring blending with the beach boulders. With two layers of fur, they’re able to trap air, creating a warm zone. Ah, nature, you are amazing.
Suddenly, I hear a whoosh behind me and I turn to see a whale surfacing. A whale!
It’s a baby humpback having a paddle only 20m from us. At around 8m long, he’s huge! My heart races but my smile is a mile wide.
Not to be outdone, our cheeky seal splashes about to gain our attention as he once again indulges in his slap-up octopus meal. With a whale on my left and a munching seal on my right, I’m beside myself as I madly try to capture the scene without tipping out!
The following day, a short seal-filled walk around the coast lands us at a popular local seafood kiosk.
Gobbling up fresh crayfish and whitebait fritter sammies, we sit in silence as the deliciousness feeds our souls.
A charming gift shop on the main street is packed with clever creations, and I pick up a few goodies for the bloke and kids back home. My gifts are handed over in a stylish bag made of recycled newspaper. I love it when creativity meets eco-care, and my new bag gains many a compliment as I head off home with “wow” moments and extraordinary memories to tide me over until I return to this wild wonderland.