FIT FOR THE QUEEN
A NEW BOOK PEEKS INTO THE ROYAL WARDROBE
Angela’s designer secrets
Angela Kelly has worked with the Queen and walked the corridors of the royal household for 25 years, initially as Her Majesty’s senior dresser, and latterly as her personal adviser, curator (the Queen’s jewellery, insignias and wardrobe) and in-house designer. As the first person in history to hold this title, she shares a uniquely close working relationship with the reigning monarch.
In The Other Side of the Coin, the Queen has personally given Angela her blessing to share their unparalleled bond with the world. We hope you enjoy this extract from the book.
DESIGNING FOR THE QUEEN
The Queen accepts more than 300 engagements each year, through different seasons, occasions and cultures. Our role as her dressers is to ensure that Her Majesty is appropriately attired for each occasion – from state events to informal daywear, in the United Kingdom and abroad.
From time to time, the
Queen will wear the same outfit to different events, although several months will pass between them. When
I’m designing an outfit, I start with ‘feelers’ − large samples of material that allow me to experience the texture of the fabric before deciding to buy it. I will squeeze and twist the sample in my hands, before smoothing it out again. If the material remains crumpled or creased, it will be of no use and is discarded from the selection.
I get my inspiration from seeing and touching the materials too, rather than starting with a sketch. I find a quiet moment when I hide in the materials storeroom and play with the fabrics, allowing them to shape themselves into a design. I look for movement with soft light materials, and might even switch on a fan to see how they behave in a breeze. Fabric choices are obviously important – there are beautiful fabrics that work well but might catch or pull on objects such as Her Majesty’s watch. Loose-weave fabrics can easily lose their shape, requiring a good lining to prevent this. They can also develop loose strands, making them appear unkempt and unattractive.
Colour is key – the colour chosen must suit the Queen and the occasion. Vibrant colours work well in the daytime − they allow her to stand out from the crowd and be visible to well-wishers who have come to see her. As the light changes, or when Her Majesty moves to an interior space, this will have an effect on the colour and texture of the fabric, and this must be taken into account.
I consider the four seasons separately and individually when designing for the Queen. Spring is for delicate, paler colours, flower motifs, lightweight coats and jackets. But as the weather is changeable, I must ensure that warmer fabrics are used to shield Her Majesty from the chill. Summer is for light, dynamic fabrics that
move and flow with the breeze; strong florals work, with vibrant colours.
Autumn is cooler, and I introduce medium to heavier fabrics, such as wools, cashmere and double crêpes, with a mellower colour palette. Winter brings gold, royal blue, deep purple, as well as velvets and heavier wools, with matching scarves, larger collars and warm hats. If Her Majesty is due to attend an engagement in particularly cold weather, from 2019 onwards fake fur is used to make sure she stays warm.
Although there are, of course, many beautiful garments and outfits, there is also the casual side to Her Majesty, when she goes walking with her dogs, for example. The Queen is famous for her green macs and her Wellington boots, but she also likes to wear skirts and blouses.
The Queen has a mixture of silk blouses as well as cotton shirts, which are all handmade by Grosvenor Shirts Ltd in Jermyn Street. As you can imagine, over the years the Queen now has many blouses and shirts, but she also wears cotton dresses in hot weather. And this is where Karl Dunkley and Juan Credidio at Grosvenor Shirts really come into their own, making these more casual dresses in their factory in Ireland.
Many of the Queen’s more memorable outfits are created for specific events, such as a state ceremonial or a royal tour abroad. When a tour is in prospect, the Queen will review the designs with me to find a style that will be sympathetic to the people and culture of the country she is to visit.
In general, necklines on coats and jackets must not be too high or too low, and must not restrict the Queen’s movement, especially when she is getting in and out of vehicles. This is particularly true of thick wool coats with wide, full collars.
A low neckline on a long dress allows a distinctive necklace to sit well and be seen. In warmer weather I typically design with a more open neckline, and when cooler the neckline will be higher and closed, for warmth and comfort.
When Her Majesty is travelling in a car and sitting for long periods, her coat or jacket must be comfortable and practical, and she must be confident in getting out of a vehicle that her outfit will fall correctly and not crumple. Too much fabric can prove challenging in that situation – and large, heavy beading on a gown can be uncomfortable, especially on the back or when sitting down.
Nonetheless, the Queen understands that beading and crystals are sometimes necessary to produce a spectacular effect − she doesn’t mind temporary discomfort when it is so important for her to ‘look the part’. I usually add a few extra layers of lining to help cushion the impact, especially at the back of the dress, and try to keep the heavily beaded areas to the front and sides.
The lengths of dresses vary according to the occasion − daywear will usually stop just below the knee while a cocktail dress for a drinks reception could fall, again, to just below the knee or ballerina length, finishing just on or below the bottom of the calf. This length is particularly good as it enables Her Majesty to walk unhindered.
Stairs can present a problem with dresses if they are too long or too tight. On occasion you will see the Queen wearing skirts that flare out from a fitted hip or knee as they allow for easy movement. I often use a fishtail in long skirts, as this gives a lovely shape to the back while still allowing for movement.
Overall, the Queen likes her clothes to be fitted but not too tight, with a sleeve length of either three-quarters or full and definitely not too wide at the wrists − at lunch or dinner the cuffs might end up in the soup.
When the time comes, I arrange a meeting with the Queen to go through my design ideas, suggested outfits and material choices. It usually takes no longer than an hour, and once we’ve come to an agreement, the outfits are made swiftly. Two fittings are then arranged to ensure that each garment fits
Her Majesty perfectly.
The Queen’s shoes are mostly handmade – and usually with no more than a two-inch heel, although for uneven surfaces, such as cobbles, gravel or grass, she will wear shoes with a lower heel. In addition to these handmade shoes, Her Majesty will also wear shoes by Anello and Davide, Stuart Weitzman, Rayne Shoes, Carvella at Kurt Geiger and Manolo Blahnik.
Her Majesty tends to use cream, white or black for her shoes as one pair will match, and be worn with many different outfits. As has been reported a lot in the press, a ‘flunky’ wears in Her Majesty’s shoes to ensure they are comfortable and that she is always good to go. And yes, I am that ‘flunk’. The Queen has very little time to herself, and no time to wear in her own shoes, and as we share the same size shoe it makes the
most sense this way.
Like the Queen’s shoes, most of her handbags are also custom made, and the weight is very important – given that Her Majesty may have to carry it for some time. She prefers a longer handle so that the bag hangs from her forearm without catching on the cuffs. The Queen doesn’t have any favourites, and uses different handbags from different designers.
The Queen is conscious that she must be easily visible to as many people as possible when she is out and about so I choose mainly striking colours so she will be easily seen. For example, when Her Majesty visits a school or a children’s centre, she is always dressed in a bright, jolly colour, and her hat has the kind of details that will appeal to children – feathers, twirls, twists, flowers and ribbons. When she visits a nursing or residential home for older people, she prefers to wear a strong, well-defined colour, with a structured hat, to help those who are visually impaired to see her and feel part of the visit.
In fact, when the Queen’s engagement includes a walkabout, the size of the crown and brim of the hat are also taken into account, as the Queen is aware that people travel from far and wide hoping to get a glimpse of her, and it is important that young and old can see her clearly on the day. But the crown of the hat must not be so high that Her Majesty has difficulty with getting into and out of a vehicle. After 6pm, the Queen does not usually wear a hat, but on state occasions or when attending special dinners she may wear a headpiece or a tiara to go with a beautiful evening dress.
If Her Majesty has to attend a large number of engagements in one day – sometimes up to five – I go for zips every time in her dresses. It is much more convenient for the Queen to be able to step in and out of a dress quickly. Trying to lift a garment over the head can wreak havoc with the hair. I also use discreet weights in the hemlines – many of the Queen’s engagements take place in the open air where a sudden breeze can be troublesome.
Typically, the lifespan of an outfit can be up to around 25 years. Her Majesty is always thrifty and likes her clothes to be adapted and recycled as much as possible. Given how much attention is paid to what the Queen wears, the dressers and I do take into consideration how regularly an outfit is worn. After two or three outings, a piece will have become more familiar to the media and public, so we will either look for ways to modify it or it will become something that is worn on private holidays at Balmoral or Sandringham, or as a morning dress. Older outfits are handy considering that, just like all of us, Her Majesty is likely to encounter the odd coffee spill or muddy dog.