North Harbour News - - SITUATIONS VACANT -

Grow­ing your own toma­toes from seed is eco­nom­i­cal if you want to grow many dif­fer­ent va­ri­eties, or if you’ve saved your seed from last year’s fruit. They do, how­ever, need a lit­tle mol­ly­cod­dling. Sow tomato seeds in plas­tic seed trays or small in­di­vid­ual pots filled with ster­ile seed-rais­ing mix. Don’t sow too deep – a light (1-2mm) sprin­kle of seed-rais­ing over the top is suf­fi­cient. En­sure the mix is moist, but not wa­ter­logged, and cover with a plas­tic sheet or bag. This traps the hu­mid­ity to speed up sprout­ing. Place the trays or pots in a warm spot, such as in­side a hot wa­ter cup­board. As soon as you see signs of ger­mi­na­tion, re­move the plas­tic and move the pots into a brightly lit lo­ca­tion in­doors, such as a sunny win­dowsill. They need as much nat­u­ral light as pos­si­ble or they’ll grow tall and spindly (leggy). Once they are 3-5cm tall, ripe in a few weeks, so spend some time this week­end tidy­ing up es­tab­lished straw­berry beds. Weed (care­fully) around your plants. Do this with a hand-held trowel or fork rather than a push hoe or spade, as straw­ber­ries have wide spread­ing roots that are eas­ily da­m­aged when you’re yank­ing out com­pet­ing weeds. Once the weeds are all cleared, lightly wa­ter in fer­tiliser. You can use any gen­eral pur­pose

NPK fer­tiliser, as straw­ber­ries are vig­or­ous grow­ers with a gen­eral hunger for ni­tro­gen as well as the potas­sium in a spe­cial­ist fruit fer­tiliser such as Dal­tons Straw­berry Fert or a tomato fer­tiliser. The fi­nal step is to lay mulch or straw over the bare soil around your plants to

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