Notebook

Getting there: Air New Zealand, Jetstar and Virgin Airlines all fly to Rarotonga from New Zealand. Once there, Air Rarotonga operates inter- island flights, including to Aitutaki. Where to stay in Rarotonga: Ikurangi Eco Retreat. Away from the bustle of Muri Beach. Stay in luxury safari tents or if a roof is preferable there are permanent ares ( huts). ikurangi.com Manuia Beach Resort. Built before Rarotonga had an airport, this is one of the first beachside hotels on the island. It has an elegant vibe and fine dining in a sandy- floor restaurant. manuia.co.ck Where to stay in Aitutaki: Tamanu Beach. Casual seaside ares accommodation. tamanubeach. com What to do and see in the Cooks: Visit the cliffside open- air museums at the Highland Paradise Cultural Centre, Puaikura, Rarotonga, in the day or take in the Drums of our Forefathers sunset cultural show and feast, featuring bus driver Mr Hopeless, who is also one of the talented drummers. highlandparadise.co.ck Discover Rarotonga by bike. Storytellers Eco Cycle Tours, Muri, caters for all abilities. Guides stop frequently to tell stories, allowing for a breather. Ten per cent of profits are returned to the community. storytellers.co.ck Take a trip with Punarei Cultural Tours, Aitutaki. Weave a food basket before laying down the banana leaves for a feast. Tour around an ancient village with views of the lagoon in a 4WD and return in time to eat the spoils. aitutakiculturaltour.com Try SUP yoga. Think a downward dog is hard on dry land? A SUP yoga session ( yoga on a paddleboard) will challenge the body and the mind. Sunset sessions use boards featuring colourful lights underneath, transforming Muri Lagoon into a rainbow of colours. See Ariki Holidays, arikiholidays.com

Explore the lagoon. A lagoon scattered with more than a dozen motus (tiny islands) and sand bars surrounds the main island of Aitutaki. Guide Ted Tevai of Sailing Aitutaki offers catamaran sailing, windsurfing and paddleboard excursions. sailingaitutaki. com