En­fleurage is a very time-con­sum­ing method, and labour in­ten­sive,

NZ Lifestyle Block - - Hoem - Grown,Hand Made -

Also, the two jas­mine flow­ers that are mostly used to make ab­so­lutes are Jas­minum gran­di­flo­rum and Jas­minum sam­bac, nei­ther of which we have here in NZ. What we do have is the weed Jas­minum polyan­thum, although it’s not (yet) on the Na­tional Pest Plant Ac­cord and in many parts of New Zealand it’s not of­fi­cially a pest plant.

NZ also has Jas­minum azoricum, and both of these plants can be used in per­fume, though they won’t de­liver the same notes as the two more pow­er­ful ones (gran­di­flo­rum and sam­bac). How­ever, a Jas­minum polyan­thum ex­tract de­rived by en­fleurage is avail­able on the Aus­tralian and UK mar­ket, with a 10ml ex­tract priced at $AUS128.

Adam Michael of Her­mitage Oils de­scribes it in flow­ery terms.

“This ma­te­rial is the most en­chant­ing and soul­ful flo­ral I have ex­pe­ri­enced this year. The aroma is a sum­mer breeze of soft, del­i­cate, har­mo­nious, Ital­ian grown Jas­minum polyan­thum flow­ers. The Ital­ian pro­ducer in my heart is an artist and this joy­ous ma­te­rial is a labour of com­plete ded­i­ca­tion and ab­so­lute un­equiv­o­cal love. The re­sult is a spir­i­tu­ally com­fort­ing aro­matic mas­ter­piece.”

En­fleurage was a method tra­di­tion­ally used for flow­ers such as jas­mine and tuberose which are too del­i­cate for dis­til­la­tion, or where the flow­ers con­tinue to produce volatile oils af­ter be­ing picked. Har­vested jas­mine flow­ers, for ex­am­ple, produce 4-5 times more volatile oil than is present at any time in the fresh flower, and tuberose up to 12 times more. If dis­til­la­tion was used, the heat would destroy the flow­ers and the still­pro­duc­ing scent.

“Del­i­cate flow­ers such as jas­mine and tuberose do give up their scent more read­ily and beau­ti­fully to en­fleurage,” says Vanessa. “It’s a very time-con­sum­ing method how­ever, and labour-in­ten­sive; you need to recharge the flow­ers up to 20 times. Tinc­tur­ing is much more straight­for­ward – pre­pare the ma­te­ri­als, cover with al­co­hol, and shake ev­ery day. Some tinc­tures are ready to use in a cou­ple of weeks, oth­ers take months, and may go on im­prov­ing for years. It gives won­der­ful re­sults with some ma­te­ri­als, and dis­ap­point­ing ones with oth­ers. I’ve found jas­mine tinc­tures dis­ap­point­ing, my­self.”

Although time-con­sum­ing, there could be a mar­ket for en­fleurage in New Zealand, but con­sider the process first. Adam Michael de­scribes the method un­der­taken by the Ital­ian mak­ers of the Jas­minum polyan­thus ex­tract.

“The freshly-opened flow­ers only are picked in the evening when their scent is pretty in­tense and gen­tly laid down on a tray with a very thin layer of wild shea but­ter smeared on it. The flow­ers are then al­lowed on the fat for max­i­mum 24 hours and then re­placed with fresh ones, and this process is re­peated at least 20 times. This way the fat ab­sorbs the scent

it gives won­der­ful re­sults with some, dis­ap­point­ing with oth­ers

Lilac. xxxxxxxxxx Jas­minum polyan­thum Tuberose.

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