Gold­fields farm soap

NZ Lifestyle Block - - Farmhouse Kitchen -

Ap­prox. 2kg soap

For me, this makes 12 patty cases and a 1kg loaf mould or two 1kg loaf moulds. Line your mould with bak­ing pa­per for easy re­moval. If you want to change the oils in the recipe check with a lye cal­cu­la­tor on­line to mea­sure the amount of caus­tic soda re­quired. Pay par­tic­u­lar at­ten­tion to weights. Once you get over the thought of us­ing caus­tic soda you will make soap reg­u­larly. I do now and love it.

In­gre­di­ents

206g sodium hy­drox­ide (caus­tic soda/lye)

528g dis­tilled or rain wa­ter

1kg olive oil (po­mace)

300g sweet al­mond oil

300g tal­low (beef drip­ping)

15ml san­dal­wood fra­grance essence (op­tional)

2 level tbsp rose clay pow­der (op­tional)

How to make

1 Don your safety glasses, face mask and rub­ber gloves. Wear an apron and cover any ex­posed skin (in­clud­ing your feet). Place wa­ter in a heavy duty plas­tic con­tainer and stand it in an empty sink. Slowly pour the caus­tic soda into the wa­ter. Stir with a long-han­dled stain­less spoon un­til all pow­der has dis­solved (about 1 minute). The fumes are fierce and a lot of heat is gen­er­ated by the chem­i­cal re­ac­tion. Have a good air flow and be pre­pared to move away from the pot quickly. 2 Leave the con­tainer in the sink and wait un­til the tem­per­a­ture is 40˚C. 3 While the caus­tic soda mix­ture is cool­ing, mea­sure oils and fat into a deep stain­less steel pot. Slowly heat the fats and oils to 40˚C, stir­ring to mix. Re­move from heat.

4 Take 1 tbsp of the oil and mix with the coloured clay in a small con­tainer. Set aside. 5 When both the caus­tic mix­ture and oils are at the same tem­per­a­ture, very slowly pour the caus­tic into the oil in a thin stream. Use your long-han­dled stain­less spoon to gen­tly stir while you do this. Once it is com­bined, use your stick beater to blend the two mix­tures to­gether to make soap. The colour will lighten and the mix­ture will reach ‘trace’, about the con­sis­tency of thin cus­tard. Some oils make a thicker cus­tard con­sis­tency. 6 Add your fra­grance liq­uid and beat un­til com­bined. 7 Pour half your mix­ture into the pre­pared mould/s. 8 Add the coloured clay to the other half left in the pot and mix well. Pour this coloured mix on top of the plain mix. You can swirl the mix­ture around to make a mot­tled ef­fect us­ing a knife or spoon. 9 Cover the con­tain­ers with card­board and then a thick towel or blan­ket. This is the gelling of the soap and it re­quires 12-24 hours to harden. The soap gets quite warm over this pe­riod. You don’t want it to cool too quickly so you can use a poly­styrene con­tainer with a lid to hold the heat in while gelling but a blan­ket in a box does just as well. 10 Twelve hours later, check your soap for firm­ness. If it is firm enough to touch with­out leav­ing an im­print you can go ahead and cut into the size or shapes that you want. Wear gloves as the soap is still caus­tic at this stage. 11 Cure the soap in a cool, dry place for four weeks be­fore us­ing. At this time, a ph test strip should read be­tween ph9-10. If it is still caus­tic (higher than ph10), leave the soap a fur­ther two weeks and test again.

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